Exploring the Napa Valley Wine Exchange: Understanding Wine’s Character Through the ‘3 Vs’ Chris Lehoux, August 13, 2024 Harvest season in Napa County’s wine country began at Peju Winery in Rutherford on Tuesday morning. Allen Balik In real estate, the mantra is “location, location, location,” while in the diamond trade, the “4 Cs”—color, clarity, cut, and carat weight—serve as indicators of quality. But what are the equivalent benchmarks in the world of wine? During a recent wine tasting I conducted, the discussion surfaced: “What are the essential elements that determine the quality of a particular wine?” We broadly covered topics like terroir (the complete environment of the grape vine), winemaking techniques, and even marketing, yet a concise resolution to the query remained elusive. While delving into the topic with colleagues, my thoughts drifted to an earlier gathering of a similar nature where a pivotal realization occurred to me. It involved identifying the pivotal “3 Vs” of wine quality: variety, vineyard, and vintage. Does the wine reflect the distinctiveness of its grape variety? Does it embody the essence of its geographical origin? Does it capture the particular characteristics of its vintage year? These questions have guided my judgment on the intrinsic quality and authenticity of a wine since that moment of insight. In a lively exchange, opinions varied, yet there was unanimous agreement about the crucial nature of the 3 Vs and the significance of their sequence. Fundamentally, the varietal identity should prominently shine through, supported harmoniously by its vineyard lineage and vintage. Each grape variety carries a unique identity, a fact revered and preserved through centuries in the cultivation and production of premium wines using time-honored methods. The inherent personality of a variety sets its priority within the 3 Vs, regardless of whether it is showcased singularly (e.g., Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot) or plays a pivotal role in an expertly composed blend (e.g., Bordeaux or Southern Rhone). However, over recent years, influential wine critics and the prevalent 100-point rating system have favored an “international” style. This style relies on advanced viticultural and vinification methods which often obscure the unique qualities of various wines. It becomes a challenge to distinguish between varietals such as Pinot Noir and Syrah or between Cabernet and Merlot under this paradigm. Personally, I always consider the distinct varietal characteristics as a primary indicator of the wine’s quality. The concept of terroir varies extensively from one vineyard to another, and between different growing regions such as appellations or AVAs. Factors like soil type, drainage, exposure, temperature, and elevation each impart a unique influence, shaping the singular profile of wines originating from a particular vineyard or region. Dedicated winegrowers value this uniqueness of their terroirs and highlight it in their pursuit of producing distinguished wines. For instance, a Tempranillo from the Rioja region of Spain ought to be distinguishable from one produced in California, just as a refined high-altitude Malbec from Argentina should present differently from one cultivated in the more rugged terrain of France’s Cahors. Sadly, due to the widespread adoption of the international style by many modern vintners, this distinctiveness is not always evident. Nonetheless, the sense of place remains a crucial element in evaluating the quality and identity of wines. It’s clear that not all vintages are equal, and this variability is among the most significant of the three Vs (vineyard, varietal, vintage). A wine from the same varietal, grown in the same vineyard and crafted by the same winemaker, might show considerable variation from one year to the next. This variability has been accentuated in recent times due to extreme fluctuations in climate conditions across the world. Thankfully, some great wines are always made in lesser vintages and what may have been an excellent vintage in Napa will not necessarily express the same attributes in Sonoma or the Central Coast let alone Europe or the southern hemisphere. Vintage is the one V completely outside the limits of our control and is especially important as it may become the final arbiter of the first two in producing a quality wine. While I’ve always appreciated the significance of each component (variety, vineyard and vintage) as an integral element in my quality assessment of individual wines, I found it both enlightening and rewarding to simplistically distill the effects of each one down to the 3 Vs. And it also got me thinking about a 4th V — value. But that’s a subject for another time. Catch up on the wine stories you may have missed in the Napa Valley Wine Insider! Here’s a look at one of the few wine estates in the city of Napa, and why there aren’t more vineyards within city limits. Securing a winery use permit in Nape County involves considerable time and financial investment before seeing any returns. Monticello Vineyards, a family-operated winery with over fifty years of history in Napa, is now facing a possible sale due to disputes among the owning family members. On Friday morning, Napa Valley College leaders and patrons initiated the construction of a new facility dedicated to wine education, set to be completed in two phases. Vineyard owners on Atlas Peak have initiated legal action claiming they are owed nearly $120,000 for grapes not paid for. William Cole Vineyards winery recently highlighted how Napa County manages code compliance issues. In 2023, Napa County’s total agricultural value exceeded $1 billion. The Napa County Planning Commission denied the Vida Valiente winery proposal, citing its location on a narrow road in a fire-risk zone. John Chaix obtained a permit from the county for a micro-winery in the Rutherford region. This week, six Ukrainian winemakers are visiting Napa Valley to learn about regenerative viticulture and natural wine production techniques from some of the region’s top winemakers and agricultural experts. Allen Balik, who lives in Napa and has over 40 years of experience as a wine collector, consultant, author, fundraiser, and enthusiast, can be contacted at allenbalik@savorlifethroughwine.com. Receive local news directly to your inbox! The grape harvest season at Peju Winery in Rutherford, Napa County, started on Tuesday morning. About the Author: Chris Lehoux Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored! Wine