Renowned Pinot Noir Winemaker Launches His Own Label After Years with Top Wine Brands

Coastlands Vineyard

She exemplified strength, freedom, and subtle elegance, her hair catching the sunlight as she prepared the soil for an assortment of 18 different Pinot Noir clones. Unlike the robustly structured Cabernet Sauvignon popular at the time, she opted for Pinot Noir, a choice that highlighted her adventurous spirit. Her background was diverse and impressive: she sculpted surfboards for Hobie in the 1950s, piloted planes to locate swordfish, and served as the art director for Practical Vineyard and Winery magazine for 25 years. With her husband, they pursued their own path on their property along the Sonoma Coast in California, situated merely three miles from the Pacific Ocean.

In 1989, they embarked on a new venture by planting a vineyard of Pinot Noir alongside her marine biologist husband. This was well before the surge in popularity for Pinot Noir among those seeking a refined red wine with a captivating aroma. They nestled their vineyard within a grove of Bay Laurel trees, underneath an old oak tree marked with the year 1906, likely referencing the catastrophic San Francisco earthquake.

During this time, their college-going son Ross lent a hand in the vineyard to earn some extra money. Aspiring to be a professional musician, Ross juggled his musical pursuits with studies in agroecology at the University of Santa Cruz, specializing in soil science. Initially, he had no plans to take over the family vineyard or to become a winemaker, as the project comprised only one and a half acres of specifically chosen Pinot Noir clones planted on their own roots.

At a pivotal moment in life, Ross chose to immerse himself not only in vineyard work but in mastering the art of winemaking. His career path led him to several esteemed wine producers across Sonoma, with experiences ranging from large-scale operations to artisanal producers. Among these, crafting small-batch, single-vineyard Pinot Noir became his passion, culminating in the establishment of Cobb Wines.

Ross Cobb’s music collection is as eclectic as his wine preferences. He owns roughly 8,000 vinyl records spanning numerous genres. The organization is chaotic—Ross prefers to select records at random, letting chance dictate his listening, reflecting musical phases of his life and even albums acquired from others who needed to offload their collections. This eclectic mix mirrors Ross’s philosophy that openness can reveal value in the most unexpected places.

Ross’s approach to learning about winemaking was similarly broad. His journey began at Ferrari-Carano in 1994, where he established their inaugural soil lab, an invaluable introduction to upscale winemaking. Seeking diverse experiences, he later joined Randall Grahm at Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz, a boutique operation known for its pioneering use of Rhône varietals and experimental techniques in California. The contrast between these experiences enriched Ross’s understanding and expertise in the wine industry immeasurably.

He gained significant experience beginning with Williams Selyem as a viticulturist and enologist amongst esteemed Pinot Noir producers on the Sonoma Coast. Following this, he served as associate winemaker at Flowers Winery under the guidance of Hugh Chappelle, until eventually taking the lead as head winemaker. His next position was at Hirsch Vineyards, where his established rapport with owner David Hirsch enabled him to help start their own label. He remained as head winemaker there until handing over the reins to Jasmine Hirsch, his daughter.

Budbreak at Doc’s Vineyard adjacent to Cobbs’ Coastland Vineyard is also noteworthy.

Meanwhile, Ross’s ascent in the winemaking field paralleled his parents’ commercial venture, selling their highly praised block of Pinot Noir grapes to Burt Williams of Williams Selyem. First planted in 1989, Burt visited to sample various Pinot Noir clones from their modest vineyard. During this visit, he and Ross’s parents discerned the superior qualities of the Jackson 16 clone, believed to have emerged in California in the late 1800s. Consequently, the Cobbs expanded their vineyard with more Jackson 16 plantings and went on to plant an additional 12 and a half acres, accumulating a total of 14 acres specifically for the propagation of premium Sonoma Pinot Noir.

Interestingly, the original vines planted in 1989 have thrived without irrigation for approximately 25 years.

Burgundy vineyards

Ross harbors a love for a diverse range of music, being drawn to anything that captivates him. However, when it comes to wine, his interests have sharply narrowed. For a long time, while holding a job at another winery, Ross crafted small wine batches using grapes from his family’s estate. It was not until he was able to dedicate himself fully to winemaking under his family’s label that he could delve deeply into understanding every aspect of their small vineyard plots. Throughout this journey, Ross grew fascinated with how premier, small-scale producers in Burgundy could convey a sense of place through their wines. Regardless of financial constraints, Ross would frequently travel to France, suitcase in tow, to visit these producers, bringing with him an assortment of fine California Pinot Noir to share. These hospitable vintners often welcomed him into their homes and were eager to learn from his experiences, yet Ross felt privileged to absorb the centuries of familial knowledge they offered.

Ross made 14 trips back to Burgundy even as his peers suggested exploring other regions. He was captivated by the Burgundian approach to viticulture and the profound ability to articulate the distinct character of each vineyard segment. His ambition grew to replicate this precise expression of locational identity with his family’s vineyards, believing that Pinot Noir, with its sensitivity to the surroundings, was the perfect conduit. He also broadened his pursuit by acquiring grapes from additional vineyard locations.

Coastlands Vineyard

Ross’s family owns the Coastlands Vineyard, where he produces an exclusive wine using grapes exclusively from his mother’s original plantings. He focuses on a particular clone of Pinot Noir, known as Jackson 16, which is favored not only by his parents and the esteemed Burt Williams for its aromatic and flavor profiles, but also for its potential resistance to the destructive vine pest, phylloxera. This pest previously ravaged vineyards across Europe and poses a risk to European grape varieties like Pinot Noir. Traditionally, the most effective method to prevent phylloxera damage has been to graft these vines onto American rootstocks. That makes Cobb’s decision to plant Pinot Noir on its native roots a distinctive move.

Ross emphasizes the rigorous measures they apply to prevent phylloxera from infesting their soil. The vineyard’s secluded location helps, positioned far from other vineyards, none of which are affected by phylloxera. If the Jackson 16 clone indeed shows resistance to the pest, Ross is considering replanting his vineyards with vines on their own roots—an endeavor his 15-year-old daughter might one day lead, possibly marking a major oenological breakthrough.

Reflecting on the past, Ross recalls his collegiate years, a time filled with personal uncertainty and familial legacy. He watched his adventurous mother plant vines alongside his father, not fully appreciating the significance of these moments until later in life. Now, those memories take on a greater clarity, highlighting life’s most touching moments amidst past overwhelm. Though a more predictable career in winemaking was available to him, Ross chose to explore deeper, driven by a desire to craft Pinot Noir that reaches the esteemed levels of great Burgundy wines.

During the peak of the harvest season in 2006, Ross had to face the sorrow of losing his mother, Diane Cobb. In her honor, Ross and his father chose a special batch from the first block of vines she had carefully planted herself. They decided to name this unique bottling after her as a tribute.

On bright days, when the sun casts a warm golden light over the nearby Pacific Ocean, Ross often stands at his mother’s vineyard, recalling her as one of the most courageous individuals he has known. Although just a young man when his mother was establishing the vineyard, her fearless nature deeply influenced him, steering him from a life dominated by fear to one where he felt empowered to take significant risks. One such risk was his decision to stop selling grapes from his mother’s prized block to another winery, despite the financial stability it offered. Instead, he chose to produce wine from these cherished Pinot Noir grapes himself, naming it in her memory to honor her enduring impact on his life.

2021 Cobb, Coastlands Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: Made entirely from Pinot Noir, this wine presents irresistible flavors of mulberry coulis and cinnamon, harmoniously blended with notes of raspberry cobbler, fragmented earth, and a lively zest.

2021 Cobb, “Diane Cobb,” Coastlands Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. The aromas are simply scintillating on this beauty with an intense minerality and oyster shell notes fleshed out by deep red fruit flavors of cherry sauce balanced by higher-tone notes of cranberries with a long, expressive finish.

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard “Joann’s Block” Chardonnay

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard “Joann’s Block,” Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Chardonnay. A dazzling nose of golden apples, lemon curd and hint of hazelnut with crisp acidity highlighted by notes of stony minerality with a nimble body with a hint of richness. Doc’s Ranch Vineyard is a neighbor and friend of Ross Cobb and this Chardonnay vineyard is named after the matriarch of the family, Joann, who loved Chardonnay wine. She was able to taste the first vintage of this Chardonnay shortly before she passed away.

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. Exuberant nose with baking spices, black raspberry scones and candied violets with a hint of a more grounding note of tree bark and a touch of fleshy fruit on the palate with an overall sprightly quality.

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard – Swan & Calera Selection, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. This wine beautifully showcases delicate aromas of lavender, fresh sage, and rose oil, coupled with clean red fruit flavors. The palate is finely structured, bursting with finesse and a clear expression of the varietal.

2021 Cobb, Wendling Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, California: 100% Pinot Noir. Featuring a complex, dark aroma that captivates the senses, this wine offers rich layers of black and blue fruits intertwined with wild herbs and a hint of sweet tobacco leaf. It presents a full body alongside crisp acidity. The grapes are sourced from a vineyard managed by the fourth-generation grower, Paul Ardzrooni, who oversees all vineyards from which Ross Cobb sources his fruit.

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About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!