Exploring the Surprising Shift: A Premier Sweet Wine Region’s Venture into Premium Dry Whites Chris Lehoux, August 31, 2024 Oremus, Tokaji Eszencia Oremus cellar Amid the dimly lit underground vaulted caves, treasures of amber-tinted liquid gold shimmer in ornate arching shelves hewn into the stone. This sprawling labyrinth, developed over four centuries ago during an era dominated by a grand kingdom beyond a mighty European empire, remains steadfast. Although the power and influence of those empires have waned, leaving behind monumental structures that echo their former greatness, other treasures have vanished. Yet, not this collection of gleaming wine bottles that emit an ethereal glow. Referred to as “liquid gold,” no wine encapsulates this title as perfectly as the sweet, illustrious Tokaji, named for its origin in the Tokaj region. In recent times, a prominent visionary of European red wines ventured into this enchanting, archaic locale within Hungary’s countryside—historically the Kingdom of Hungary, outside the Holy Roman Empire, later becoming a pivotal element of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The global tumult of WWI and WWII, followed by Communist rule, profoundly impacted Hungary until its decline in 1989. Although the end of communism was a liberating moment for Hungarians, it exposed vulnerabilities, including potential threats to their cherished Tokaji dessert wines. Celebrated by royals, these wines require an intensive cultivation and production process, demanding significant financial and labor investments, rendering them scarcely profitable. Learn more about Hungary’s wine heritage here. The story begins with a notable figure, distinguished among the select few family-owned ultra-premium wine producers, receiving an invitation to acquire a historic wine estate rich in the heritage where Hungary showcased its brilliance. Under a gleam of golden sunlight that draped over the white linen of the table, one of Spain’s preeminent wine producers was called to savor this unique wine. Its legendary reputation piqued his curiosity enough to make a long journey to enjoy a vertical tasting that dated back to 1866. It turned out to be one of his most extraordinary wine tasting experiences, an impressive statement considering this gentleman was Pablo Álvarez, the proprietor of Vega Sicilia, famed for producing Unico, a renowned and coveted red wine globally, and a connoisseur of the finest wines on the planet. Oremus, Tokaji Eszencia The remarkable 1866 vintage he tasted was a Tokaji Eszencia from the esteemed estate known as Oremus. This wine is renowned as the sweetest among the Hungarian Tokaji wines, yet its allure lies in more than just its sweetness. It represents an extraordinary expression of its origin and intricacy, encapsulated in a texture that stands unrivalled. Esteemed figures such as Catherine the Great and King Louis XIV once coveted this exceptional wine. Despite its historical admiration, the seclusion imposed by the iron curtain of communism kept this exquisite golden treasure obscured from the broader circle of avid wine lovers, remaining relatively unknown even today. Pablo Álvarez Pablo Álvarez, the owner of Vega Sicilia, faced an unexpected crossroads when he considered buying an estate in Hungary. Initially skeptical, he accepted an invitation out of empathy, recalling the initial disregard for his own wine region, Ribera del Duero before he restored Vega Sicilia to prominence. In Hungary, he discovered captivating wines ranging from Eszencia to the Puttonyos Aszú and the Late Harvest series, each capturing his interest with varying degrees of sweetness, complexity, and price. Pablo Álvarez was hesitant about managing an old estate abroad given his meticulous dedication to Vega Sicilia. His commitment to quality is so profound that he not only prioritizes excellence in every detail but also has initiated growing oak for barrels and producing corks exclusively for Vega Sicilia wines, thereby enhancing the unique terroir expression of his estate. Working the Oremus Vineyards in Tokaj, Hungary And for Pablo, it was all or nothing; he would either buy this ancient estate in Tokaj, Hungary and completely give up his little bit of downtime, or he would graciously turn down the offer and close the door on a special piece of wine history. He felt that the former was the only option he could live with; if the estate fell into ruin, he would always regret it. Vines in the Oremus Vineyards in Tokaj, Hungary during Winter Yet, this mission would be different, as it was not just about restoring the estate to its prestigious sweet wine reputation; he realized that the dry white wines from his estate were lovely. He discovered that the Oremus vineyards were classified as a “Primae Classis” in 1772, which can be equated to a first growth property in Bordeaux, so the multifaceted aromatic and flavors with an intense sense of place translate to the dry white wines too. He then decided to seek out the best vineyards for stellar dry white wine and he called on a good friend, Véronique Drouhin – part of the distinguished Burgundy Drouhin wine family, to recommend a viticulturist to pick the ideal plots and use precision vineyard management geared towards producing a top dry white wine. The single vineyard Petrács showed itself as the best of their vineyards for this purpose and now, Pablo is showing the world that Tokaj, Hungary, can make white wines on a level with some of the best in the world. 1920 Vega Sicilia ‘Unico’ If not for the dedication of such a fierce visionary as Pablo, Vega Sicilia would have easily been a lost treasure, a footnote in the history of Spanish wine as a once great winery that eventually disappeared in a sea of mediocrity. Still, one man made sure that that didn’t happen. Today, fine wine collectors of the top Bordeaux and Napa wines worldwide will go to great lengths to seek out various vintages of Vega Sicilia’s Unico. Depending on the vintage, Unico will outshine other wines in their collection. And from time to time, those collectors today travel across the world to come in some of the top restaurants in Spain to taste an incredible vertical of Unico. Sometimes, Pablo will break out bottles of Oremus sweet wines and those who like to end on a sweet note love those wines. And sometimes, on a rare occasion, he will present a bottle of his Oremus dry white wine from the single vineyard of Petrács before the tasting starts. Many scoff at such a notion but once in a while, there is that one wine collector who, with joyous abandonment, accepts a glass of the single vineyard Petrács dry white wine. And then he realizes, right there at that moment, that he is drinking something exceptional that is being dismissed by his wine-collecting crew. Oremus vineyards in Tokaj, Hungary during sunset There was a time when many fine wine drinkers thought of Vega Sicilia as a once great ghost from the past, declining in quality at the beginning of the second half of the 20th century, speculating that perhaps it was never as great as it was since it wasn’t judged by the standards of present times. Yet when Pablo Álvarez’s family bought Vega Sicilia in 1982, investing a tremendous amount of time and money into the winery, the world discovered that not only were the wines as great as they were reported to be in the past, but they seemed to surpass even its former reputation as the word “great” couldn’t do the wines justice. At the onset of Pablo’s endeavor to dedicate his efforts in transforming Vega Sicilia into the foremost wine producer globally, skepticism loomed among some regarding the attainability of such an ambitious aspiration. Nonetheless, those initial believers who invested in the wines and became the foundational collectors under Pablo Álvarez’s pioneering oversight, reaped rewards from their foresight and audacity to trust their intuition, diverging from the prevailing skepticism at that time. Such an outcome could one day echo for Oremus, not merely concerning its already celebrated sweet wines which have garnered a niche audience for the sweet varietals of Tokaj, Hungary, but also for the potential achievement in crafting premier single vineyard white wines. These wines aim to be lively, intricate, and imbued with a distinctive expression of their origin, proposing to the world that there’s a noteworthy white wine region that remains undervalued. Pablo’s contributions have elevated Ribera del Duero into one of the preeminent red wine territories across the globe, and now he is channeling his expertise towards similarly optimizing the dry white wines of Tokaj, Hungary. Dry white wines 2020 Oremus ‘Petrács’ and 2021 Oremus ‘Mandolás’ alongside their sweet wine counterparts. 2020 Oremus ‘Petrács’ Tokaji Dry White Wine, Tokaj, Hungary: 100% Furmint. Whimsical notes of honeysuckle and citrus blossom with a core of intense minerality with mouthwatering acidity and a very long, expressive finish lifted by hints of lemon confit and sea spray. 2021 Oremus ‘Mandolás’ Tokaji Dry, Tokaj, Hungary: 100% Furmint. Fennel fronds and white pepper delight the nose with pineapple custard flavors and a softer acidity than the Petrács, with the purity of little white wildflower notes lingering in one’s head. Oremus, Tokaji Late Harvest 2022 Oremus, Tokaji Late Harvest, Tokaj, Hungary: A blend of Furmint, Sárgamuskotály and Kövérszőlő. This is the first level of sweet wines in the Oremus lineup with 113g/l of residual sugar. Wafting aromas of warm apple strudel freshly made with spice cake and zingy orange peels balanced by intense acidity. Several passes are made through the vineyard during the harvest but only bunches containing at least 50% botrytized grapes are selected. After destemming, the berries are left to macerate for 4-12 hours before pressing, emphasizing the noble rot. 2017 Oremus, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2017 Oremus, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos, Tokaj, Hungary: This wine is a mix of Furmint, Zéta, and Sárgamuskotály, offering an advanced degree of sweetness at 178g/l of residual sugar. It presents a captivating smoky minerality and flavors of grilled pineapple, lemon meringue, and candied violets, all brought together with a rich texture that’s accentuated by vibrant acidity. The traditional method of production involves adding five baskets (puttonyos), each holding 25 kg of botrytized Aszú berries, to the must. These grapes are handpicked and allowed to macerate between 12-24 hours before being gently pressed. Fermentation is conducted in new Hungarian oak barrels, a process that can extend to a month. Post-fermentation, the wine matures for over two years in 136 and 220-liter barrels and spends an additional 2-3 years aging in bottles. 2012 Oremus, Tokaji Eszencia 2012 Oremus, Tokaji Eszencia, Tokaj, Hungary: Comprised of Furmint, Hárslevelü, Zéta, and Sárgauskotály, Eszencia is renowned as the nectar of the gods, embodying Oremus’ quintessence. With an extremely high residual sugar content of 569g/l and merely 3% alcohol, this wine encapsulates sensuality in liquid form. The palate enjoys a decadent array of marmalade, rosehip syrup, and quince paste, alongside a saline minerality and an immaculate finish that features impressively sustained flavors. One Community. Many Voices. Create a free account to share your thoughts. Our community is about connecting people through open and thoughtful conversations. We want our readers to share their views and exchange ideas and facts in a safe space. In order to do so, please follow the posting rules in our site’s Terms of Service. We’ve summarized some of those key rules below. Simply put, keep it civil. Your post will be rejected if we notice that it seems to contain: User accounts will be blocked if we notice or believe that users are engaged in: So, how can you be a power user? Thanks for reading our community guidelines. Please read the full list of posting rules found in our site’s Terms of Service. About the Author: Chris Lehoux Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored! Wine