Chef José Andrés Opens Bazaar Mar: A Culinary Jewel on the Las Vegas Strip Chris Lehoux, September 5, 2024 The new concept features exceptional seafood dishes paired with top-shelf Spanish wines. Additionally, there’s a new Texan wine hotspot in San Antonio and a fond farewell to a favorite in Los Angeles. Who’s behind it: Last month, chef and humanitarian José Andrés inaugurated his fifth restaurant in Las Vegas, Bazaar Mar, located in the Shops at Crystals, a premier shopping area on the Las Vegas Strip. A sister venue to the chef’s Bazaar Meat, located nearby at the SAHARA resort. Bazaar Mar is a Spanish tapas restaurant with a unique array of seafood dishes that reflect Andrés’ iconic cooking style. Here, diners are greeted in a dramatically designed dining area that features oceanic themes with vibrant orange and emerald tones coupled with decorative marble centaurs and ceramic Sicilian teste di moro (sculpted heads decked with crowns). “We’ve had phenomenal feedback from our patrons, who rely on us to transport them on an amazing sea voyage and provide a memorable experience,” stated Daniela Romero, the head chef at Bazaar Mar, in an interview with Wine Spectator via email. “They marvel at our ambiance and decorations, the care we put into our service, and the inventive, playful nature of our dishes.” When it opened: Aug. 7 The culinary approach: Bazaar Mar’s menu incorporates molecular gastronomy with classic dishes by Andrés, featuring liquid olives pioneered at El Bulli in Spain by chef Ferran Adrià, “Neptune’s Pillow” consisting of spicy tuna atop puffed “air bread”, and “Honey, I Shrunk the Elote” with popcorn powder. The selection largely extends the Bazaar Meats collection, as Romero highlighted, supplementing with innovative plates like Catalan Rossejat (akin to paella pasta), lobster salpicon, and grilled Ora King salmon paired with salmon roe and Meyer lemon. Noteworthy desserts include “Key Lime Beach,” an imaginative “sand castle” of graham cracker crumbs accompanied by a foam resembling shoreline waves called “lime air”. What’s on the wine list: Led by Sommelier Roy Arias, the wine program focuses on Spain and top Bordeaux châteaus. About 220 selections populate the list, supported by a cellar with over 1,600 bottles, featuring a variety of Sherry, white, and sparkling wines such as R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia and Josep Maria Raventós i Blanc. Reds include options like Señorio de San Vicente Rioja and Bodegas Vega Sicilia Ribera del Duero Unico from Spain, plus exceptional wines like Château Latour Pauillac 1990. A second opening: Alongside Bazaar Mar, Andrés launched Bar Centro on the lower level. This adaptable venue serves as a café by morning and morphs into a cocktail bar by night. “Bar Centro offers varied settings throughout the day, from morning coffee, tea, and pastries to evening cocktails, caviar, and sophisticated snacks,” explained Arias.—Chris Cardoso Who’s behind it: Isidore is the newest initiative by the Emmer & Rye Hospitality Group based in Texas. This group manages a series of eateries across Austin and San Antonio, boasting recognitions such as the Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence for Hestia and an Award of Excellence for Emmer & Rye. Isidore marks the fourth full-service establishment within Pullman Market, launched earlier this year near the historic Pearl District, close to San Antonio’s famed River Walk. Texas Hestia Emmer & Rye Pullman Market When it opened: Aug. 13 What’s on the wine list: Led by wine director Ali Schmidt, the wine selection at Isidore is crafted to enhance the local cuisine, celebrating Texas’s rich agricultural resources. The establishment currently offers 200 wine choices, including 16 by the glass and a cellar of 1,200 bottles. Schmidt’s ambition is to extend this assortment to over 250 unique wines, focusing more on Texas wines and seasoned vintages. Texas wines Schmidt emphasized, “Our wine list emphasizes the local Texas wine scene, showcasing nearby producers along with premier global wines. We take particular pride in featuring wines from small-scale Texas vineyards like those by Doug Lewis of Lewis Wines, Randy Hester of C.L. Butaud, and Rae Wilson of La Valentía.” While many restaurants in emerging wine areas might offer a few local wines, Isidore places a significant emphasis on showcasing Texas wines. One-fourth of their wines available by the glass are sourced from Texas, and they have a special section on their wine list dedicated to Texas reds, all priced below $100. Beyond red wines, there are various other styles of Texas wines available, including Albariño and a Madeira-style dessert wine. For those desiring something a bit stronger, Isidore also boasts a noteworthy selection of Bourbon and Texas whiskey. The wine selections from other parts of the world include classic regions and prominent wineries as well as unique styles and lesser-known producers. At Isidore, you can find white Burgundy from Domaine Leflaive alongside “Party Boy,” a Riesling-based orange wine from Good Boy Wines in Santa Barbara. Those looking to indulge can find a range of high-quality options including aged bottles and larger formats, though many offerings are reasonably priced at $50 or under, with several exceeding no more than $100. With a clever juxtaposition of casual wine expertise and playful elements, Schmidt’s wine selection includes a large segment titled “Bordeaux Grapes, Around the World,” featuring wines from producers like Inglenook and DeLille. Another unique section of the menu is dedicated to serious rosés, including a Merlot rosé from Château Le Puy in Bordeaux, under the title “Rosé That Takes Itself Seriously and You Should Too.” The culinary approach: Isidore’s dining menu is cleverly divided into four categories: raw bar, snacks, small plates, and mains from the hearth. Throughout the menu, there is a strong focus on fermentation and modern culinary practices; this includes unique sides and sauces such as nitro potato, bread aminos, lactic strawberry, pickled sea purslane, and bee balm kombucha. Isidore’s culinary team showcases local Texas ingredients through dishes that beautifully mix sophistication with a touch of home. They offer tomato pie adorned with pimento cheese and crème fraîche, and shrimp meatballs beside okra stew. Main courses focus on robust proteins including a selection of three steaks, a dry-aged Berkshire pork chop, and a heritage half-chicken. For those preferring vegetables, they serve a hot pot filled with farm vegetables, Texas grains, and mushroom dashi, as well as blueline tilefish with mousseline, tomato, and sweet pepper rouille. For dessert, the s’mores feature toasted meringue instead of the traditional marshmallow. Alternatively, experience a distinct Texan flavor with cheesecake accompanied by prickly pear cactus sorbet. —Kenny Martin What’s happening: Downtown Los Angeles’ restaurant Otium is shutting down after nearly a decade. Known for chef Tim Hollingsworth’s varied menu and notable wines, the closing was announced through an Instagram post, attributing the decision to the severe impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic. The team expresses its intention to seek new opportunities for Otium within the city and reminisces about the restaurant being a cherished hub for communal gatherings. Despite the closure at this current site, there is optimism regarding the future presence of Otium. When it’s closing: Sept. 8 Why it matters to wine and food lovers: Hollingsworth, who devoted 13 years to Thomas Keller’s the French Laundry, including four years as chef de cuisine, established Otium in 2015, quickly making a mark in the Los Angeles dining scene. His menu encompasses a diverse range of dishes, drawing influences from Asia, the Middle East, Italy, and beyond, all prepared in an open kitchen and served in a vibrant dining environment. Since 2017, the restaurant has been awarded the Wine Spectator’s Best of Award of Excellence, showcasing its dedication to wine through its impressive 3,500-bottle collection housed in a tall glass tower, accessible only by ladders. Notable mentions on the wine list include several selections of Dom Pérignon, alongside familiar labels like Bond and Château Cos-d’Estournel. The wine selection also includes unique choices from lesser-known regions such as Lebanon, Slovenia, and England. Looking ahead: Hollingsworth is involved in various upcoming ventures. Chain, his collaborative project with actor B.J. Novak, is a pop-up that elevates classic fast-food fare. Since its beginning in 2022, Chain has grown significantly and plans to host food festivals in both Los Angeles and New York City later this year. The future is yet to be defined for the striking minimalist building that serves as Otium’s home at the Broad Museum Plaza, adjacent to the Broad, a modern art museum. This distinct structure, designed by the late architect Osvaldo Maiozzi, features bold wood panels and expansive windows and stands prominently in the Bunker Hill neighborhood. —Greg Warner Stay updated with the latest restaurant news from our award-winning spots: Subscribe to our complimentary Private Guide to Dining newsletter! About the Author: Chris Lehoux Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored! Wine