Discovering the Rich Heritage of Chilean Carmenere: A Journey Through the Oldest Vines

One of the oldest wineries in Chile is celebrating a new spotlight on its unique dry-farmed, old vine Carménère wines. This recognition follows a significant historical discovery made by Dr. Jean-Michel Boursiquot in 1994, when he identified that many vines labeled as Merlot in Chile were actually Carménère. This grape had almost vanished from Bordeaux due to the phylloxera crisis, only to be misidentified and widely planted in Chile during the 19th century.

Dr. Boursiquot’s realization came during a visit to Viña Carmen, the oldest winery in Chile, where he noticed distinctive features in the leaves and flowers of the grapevines. This discovery marked a pivotal moment for Chilean winemaking, as Carménère has since evolved into the nation’s signature grape variety.

Among the leading producers of Carménère in Chile is Viña Santa Rita, which boasts some of the oldest vines in the world located in the renowned Apalta area of Colchagua. Winemaker Sebastián Labbé aims to find the right balance in producing high-quality wines that reflect the region’s character. His commitment to the vineyards and careful management of the ripening process has led to the creation of two exceptional single-vineyard Carménère wines, "Floresta" and "Pewën de Apalta."

Carménère, traditionally overshadowed by other Bordeaux grapes, offers unique challenges for winemakers. It has been known for its herbaceous qualities when harvested too early or for being heavy when picked late. However, Labbé has focused on showcasing the grape’s vibrant fruit character while maintaining a sense of the terroir.

Today, Santa Rita’s old vine Carménère wines are in high demand, with "Floresta" ranked among the top wines by Wine Enthusiast and "Pewën de Apalta" receiving accolades in prestigious wine guides. Although not indigenous to Chile, Carménère has found a true home there due to the region’s warmer, drier growing conditions, which allow for the grapes to thrive.

The wines from Viña Santa Rita exemplify the potential of Carménère, highlighting its complexity and the influence of its Apalta origin. As it gains international recognition, Carménère is establishing itself not just as a grape variety but as a proud symbol of Chilean viticulture.

About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!