Celebrating 40 Years of Culinary Excellence: Danny Meyer’s Iconic NYC Restaurant

In the early 1980s, Danny Meyer found himself at a crossroads while contemplating a future in law school. However, a conversation with his uncle shifted his focus towards a career in food and restaurants—a decision that would prove transformative. Four decades later, he stands as the founder and executive chairman of Union Square Hospitality Group, which encompasses several acclaimed New York restaurants, including Gramercy Tavern and the Modern. But it all began with Union Square Cafe, founded in 1985, which celebrates its 40th anniversary this fall.

At just 27 years old, Meyer utilized $740,000 in startup funds, a mix of his savings and contributions from family. He opened Union Square Cafe in a then-neglected neighborhood, aiming to blend the warm ambiance of an Italian trattoria with the fresh ingredients of California cuisine and the elegance of fine French dining. At a time when upscale dining in New York was dominated by classic French cuisine, Meyer dared to introduce New American fare.

Meyer acknowledges his inexperience but quickly adapted, embracing what he termed “enlightened hospitality.” Over its lifetime, the restaurant has navigated numerous challenges, such as relocating, the aftereffects of 9/11, the pandemic, and economic downturns. Recently, Meyer discussed the longevity and relevance of Union Square Cafe with senior editor Mitch Frank.

When asked about sustaining relevance in a city constantly seeking new trends, Meyer emphasized the importance of daily reflection: “What should we feel really good about that we did yesterday? And what are three things we could do a little bit better today?” He noted that while the restaurant has faced slumps, it has emerged busier and better than ever.

Meyer also pointed out the significance of having four chefs over four decades, which has allowed the restaurant to remain fresh and appealing to its regulars while also introducing new elements. He compared the dynamic between regular patrons and the evolving menu to that of an audience at a concert, where fans enjoy the old favorites while artists seek to promote new works.

Regarding the evolution of wine service at Union Square Cafe, Meyer shared that he initially oversaw the wine program but eventually had to delegate responsibilities due to the expansion of his restaurant group. He noted a blend of California, French, and Italian wines on the list, while reflecting on how inflation has significantly impacted wine prices over the years.

Meyer stressed the importance of continuous adjustment: "Micro adjustments almost every single day. It’s like brushing your teeth. If you wait until you go to the dentist to remember to brush your teeth, you’re going to probably have some major problems." He starts his mornings reviewing feedback from past service to identify areas for improvement.

Ultimately, when asked what advice he would give to his younger self, he would simply say, “buckle up,” signifying the challenges and rewarding journey that lay ahead in the restaurant industry.

About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!