Navigating Change: What’s Next for France’s Organic Winegrowers After Losing a Key Tool?

France’s renowned wine regions experienced a warm July last year, but a significant challenge emerged for organic grape growers. On July 15, 2025, the national health agency ANSES (Agence nationale de sécurité sanitaire) revoked the market authorization for 19 copper-based fungicides used to combat downy mildew. As of January 15, 2026, these products can no longer be bought or sold, forcing farmers to utilize existing stocks for just one more year.

This decision has deeply shocked the organic wine sector, posing a critical question: how can winemakers safeguard their vines from mildew when their primary weapon has been taken away? Gérard Bertrand, a prominent vigneron in southern France and advocate for organic farming, stated, “Copper is a natural element, naturally occurring in nature,” arguing that its toxicity concerns have been exaggerated.

Historically, copper has been a vital tool in viticulture, first being used in France in 1885 to combat downy mildew, an invasive pathogen. It is globally accepted in organic agriculture, and there are no effective alternatives that meet organic standards—notably, all synthetic fungicides are prohibited within these practices.

However, copper is not without its flaws; it is a persistent metal that accumulates in soil, potentially disrupting microbial communities essential for healthy terroir and contaminating waterways. Additionally, vineyard workers are at risk of various health issues from repeated copper exposure.

Despite these risks, current European regulations restrict the use of copper to 28 kilograms per hectare over seven years. Data from the ITAB Institute indicated that organic growers in France used an average of just 3.72 kg/ha in 2024, suggesting they adhere to limits more stringently than required.

Concerns are being voiced by growers like Alexis de Benoist from Burgundy’s Domaine Alexis de Benoist, who views the ban as an assault on organic practices. He emphasized their already conservative use of copper and the implications of its ban on vine health.

ANSES justified its withdrawal of authorization based on insufficient safety data provided by copper spray manufacturers. However, some EU countries have reacted differently, allowing copper use authorization until the mid-2029.

Grapegrowers in regions known for high mildew pressure, such as Alsace, Champagne, Burgundy, and Bordeaux, will notably feel the impact of this regulation. Pierre-Baptiste Jestin of Champagne Leclerc-Briant mentioned how the lack of copper could have led to severe losses during the wet conditions of 2024.

Looking for alternatives, Jestin hopes that advancements in scientific research could yield plant-derived remedies, such as nettle teas, that have been used alongside copper in some organic practices.

Despite intentions for healthier farming practices, the restrictions could ultimately lead to a decline in organic vineyards and a rise in chemical fungicide usage. Estimates suggest that around 20% of organic vineyard land might lose certification due to the inability to manage mildew without sufficient copper options.

Valentin Mery from Demeter added that there’s limited government support for farmers transitioning to organic practices, emphasizing that while some may benefit during conversion, ongoing support remains scant.

Currently, only two copper products retain authorization but come with strict limitations. The future of organic viticulture in humid regions like Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne is now in question, as the efficacy of alternatives remains uncertain. This critical juncture will not only impact the future of French wine but may also influence the broader trajectory of organic farming across Europe.

About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!