Rick Tramonto Unveils Nisos Prime in Chicago: A Turning Point in His Culinary Journey

Tramonto’s latest restaurant focuses on steak and wines from locales as diverse as Greece and California, and beyond. In addition, a partnership with David Kinch on the culinary project Ritual brings new life to his Manresa restaurant through chef residencies.

The people behind the project: Rick Tramonto, a renowned chef and restaurateur, captivated Chicago locals and tourists alike for several years at Tru, an establishment that attained the Grand Award from Wine Spectator in 2004. After leaving Tru in 2010 and its subsequent closure by the Lettuce Entertain You hospitality group in 2017, Tramonto has since 2022 been the executive chef and food and beverage director for Parker Hospitality in Chicago. His responsibilities include handling several restaurants, among which are Hampton Social and Costera. In addition to his restaurant endeavors, Tramonto has also penned several books and cookbooks, including the 2011 publication, Scars of a Chef.

The launch: Under the fold of Tramonto and Parker Hospitality, Nisos Prime opened its doors in November 2023. The new hotspot took over the space from its previous occupant Nisos, a Mediterranean-inspired restaurant that had shut down earlier within the year.

The food concept: Tramonto, in an email to Wine Spectator, shared his excitement about the restaurant project, noting the opportunity it offered to explore Mediterranean influences from countries like Italy, France, Greece, and Spain, and express them through the vocabulary of a steak house. The menu at Nisos Prime features a selection of premium beef cuts, such as an 8-ounce hanger steak accompanied by frites, a 16-ounce bone-in strip steak, a 4-ounce portion of Japanese A5 Wagyu, and a 32-ounce dry-aged Porterhouse. Additional culinary delights include an 8-ounce Campo Grande Ibérico tenderloin, as well as prosciutto and other cured meats, served from a dedicated cart, with optional Champagne pairings for those interested.

What’s on the wine list: The wine list, curated by director Evie Olson, comprises nearly 225 options from a 1,400-bottle inventory. Predominantly featuring wines from France, Italy and California, it also includes varieties from Austria, Croatia, Germany, Greece, Oregon, Portugal, and Spain. “Our aim is to provide a memorable dining experience by making the wine selection process enjoyable and exciting rather than daunting,” says Olson. Some notable names on the list are Méo-Camuzet from Burgundy, Bordeaux’s Château Margaux, Turley Wine Cellars from California, and Tuscany’s Sassicia, from Tenuta San Guido. Olson also introduces guests to new selections like Loire Valley’s Domaine Guiberteau, wines from Oregon’s Kelley Fox, and California’s Scherer Winery.

The menu prominently features options from Mediterranean regions, especially those available by-the-glass. “With our shift to become a steak house, we’ve also introduced more robust, full-bodied wines that pair well with a porterhouse or a tomahawk,” adds Olson.

The Design: Situated on the second floor, Nisos Prime retains some original design elements from the first Nisos, such as the lighting fixtures. The elegant decor includes leather seats, stone accents, and indoor plants. A bookshelf conceals a music-filled Lounge, same level. The first floor houses the cocktail-centric Prime Bar, complete with its own dining room.

In August 2022, the closure of Manresa was announced. This widely revered fine dining restaurant from the San Francisco Bay Area, had won the Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence. Its closure after two decades came as a shock to many; owner and renowned chef David Kinch had plans to sell the Los Gatos, Calif. property. The loss of this Silicon Valley institution was mourned by food and wine lovers alike.

One opportunity fades only to give birth to a new one. Shortly after the closure, a fresh scheme sprung up to retain Manresa’s spirit: Ritual’s co-founders, Juan and Luis Caviglia, proposed to use the former Manresa venue as a steady base for their culinary operations. “Our biggest difficulty was always the ever-changing venues,” commented Juan Caviglia. “It involves immense effort and several moving pieces to establish a fine-dining restaurant every six weeks. We had searched for a permanent spot, but nothing was fitting. When we connected with David, we found commonality in our visions.” Consequently, within a span of few months, they initiated the planning for a novel concept: Ritual at Manresa.

Starting Jan. 17, Ritual at Manresa began presenting eminent chefs for three-week residencies at the Manresa venue. Every chef will remodel the restaurant into a temporary host for their distinct culinary style, using local and seasonal ingredients.

Both Juan Caviglia and Kinch admit that incorporating the Manresa name might necessitate explanation, and they aim to clarify that Manresa is not reopening. Even though Kinch is a crucial part of it, he only serves as an ambassador. “I hope my involvement makes it more significant as a continuation of Manresa’s legacy. That’s why the title,” noted Kinch. “We couldn’t have wished for a better succession of the venue. Ritual’s concept fits perfectly as the next chapter.”

The venue will accommodate 48 guests for dinner, from Wednesday to Sunday. Tickets have sold out for the first two residencies ($450 per person, with alternate wine and non-alcoholic beverage pairings) from the seafood-centered chef Ángel León of Spain and chef-restaurateur JP Park of New York Restaurant Award winners Atoboy, Naro, and Atomix. Throughout the year, Ritual at Manresa will place tickets on sale for subsequent residencies, such as those from chef Julien Royer of Singapore’s Odette and chef Arnaud Faye of Paris’ Château de la Chèvre d’Or (the final residency, set for December).

“This will be a stage for chefs to take over,” Juan Caviglia added, noting that the lighting, music, plates, flatware and other specifics will change to represent the restaurant or region of each participating chef. The chefs will also bring their own teams including sous chefs, sommeliers and service captains for a complete experience. “Atomix is essentially bringing the entire team!” Juan Caviglia exclaimed.

The wine program will also change with each new chef, and the wine bottles chosen for pairings will add to the diversity. Kinch anticipates that after a few dinners, the cellar will hold an enticing range of options. “We’re not building a cellar right out of the gate. However, this will allow the contributors to add to it every month and grow it organically.”

Yet Ritual at Manresa is not simply a place to enjoy good food and wine. In inventing a membership-based enterprise, Juan Caviglia drew inspiration from institutions like the Philharmonic that are maintained by annual contributions. “We considered, ‘Why doesn’t this exist in food?’” For their support, members will enjoy special nights, exclusive events and other benefits.

“We’re creating a space for experimentation. Chefs and their teams can take a month off, venture to California, forge local networks, and have fun with local ingredients. This is more akin to a theatrical experience,.” Juan Caviglia added. “Different rooms will provide different experiences. Expect many surprises.”—A.R.

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About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!