Unveiling Luxury: The Ritz-Carlton’s New Hotel and Restaurant Launch in Oregon

The luxury hotel company makes its Pacific Northwest debut in Portland; plus, San Francisco restaurateur Shelley Lindgren brings a new wine program to Anguilla’s Malliouhana Resort

Who’s behind it: Bellpine is within the newly opened The Ritz-Carlton, Portland, in Portland, Ore. Helming the kitchen is executive chef Pedro Almeida, the chef behind Midori inside the Ritz-Carlton Penha Longa Resort in Sintra, Portugal. There he blends Portuguese cuisine with the traditions of Japanese cooking. Almeida will oversee the Portland hotel’s entire culinary program. Joining him in the kitchen is Portland chef Lauro Romero, formerly of restaurants Clandestino and República; at the latter, opened in 2020, he garnered acclaim for his modern Mexican cuisine.

When it opened: Both the hotel and restaurant debuted Oct. 31, 2023.

Why you should know about it: The addition of the 35-story Ritz-Carlton to downtown Portland indicates that the hospitality landscape in the Rose City, within driving distance of Oregon’s renowned Willamette Valley wine region is continuing to grow.

Bellpine aptly integrates into Portland’s varied and vibrant culinary scene, offering a touch of luxury and the very best of what the Pacific Northwest has to offer. John Roussin, the restaurant manager and sommelier at Bellpine, explains that the ability of Lauro to resonate with the locals is a significant factor in attracting both local inhabitants and hotel guests.

The culinary approach: As Roussin explains, the menu gracefully exhibits Romero’s knack for Latin American flavors while also embracing Almeida’s origins. The consequence is a contemporary American menu with a global touch and a hint of whimsy. The menu incorporates local products such as geoduck, mushrooms, and truffles. A recent dish exemplifies the culinary philosophy of Bellpine – a savory twist of a conventional buñuelo (a doughnut-like snack), loaded with avocado mousse and topped with sliced geoduck, serrano ham, and Fresno chiles. It’s finalized by the kitchen team at Bellpine with guajillo chile oil, a spot of caviar, and puffed amaranth.

Another noteworthy dish features pan-seared diver scallops paired with Rainier cherry salsa, cranberry cocoa butter, and a dab of fresh trout roe. “To see these ingredients composed together requires an artistic genius, and it’s everything I could ask for in a morsel,” expresses Roussin. “There’s a richness and sweetness from the scallops, along with the cocoa butter which coats your taste buds … and the tang from the cherries and tiny explosions of trout roe.”

While the menu primarily encourages sharing, it doesn’t only consist of small platters. Large main courses are also available, such as a cedar plank salmon seasoned with potlatch and topped with yuzu hollandaise, or a 32-ounce, 30-day dry-aged, smoked rib eye steak served with aioli and jam.

What’s on the wine list: Holding in excess of 200 labels, the assortment of wine highlights some of Oregon’s most renowned wineries, such as Argyle, Adelsheim, Bergström and Penner-Ash. Roussin states that wineries from Oregon and Washington make up 40 to 50 percent of the selection, with a great deal of Champagne and a little of everything else from the global wine scene. “The list has doubled since the opening as the understanding of the chef’s food preparation style has improved,” he adds.

Roussin is also starting to incorporate lesser-known, food-friendly varieties from Oregon like Gewürztraminer and Chenin Blanc from Columbia Gorge, in addition to Tuscany and Piedmont wines to complement heartier meals.

The Design: The restaurant, termed Bellpine, is inspired by a specific marine sediment soil found in the Pacific Northwest. The design mirrors this inspiration, using elements such as a ceiling capturing the texture of a wild mushroom’s underside. The design also draws from Oregon’s spectacular coastline, symbolized through the dining room’s sandy colors and blue and green hues. During the day, expansive windows let in light and afford a scenic view from the 20th floor. After sunset, the mood in the 170-seat restaurant shifts to reflect richer earth tones, with copper accents adding sparkle.

Who’s behind it: Situated on Anguilla in the Eastern Caribbean is the sumptuous resortMalliouhana. The first owner, wine collector Leon Roydon, ensured the resort held a Wine Spectator Grand Award for a lengthy duration. The ownership and management underwent changes and renovations, and in 2023, the Storey Hotel Management Group took over from Auberge Resorts. San Francisco Bay Area wine expert, Shelley Lindgren, reported to Wine Spectator via email, “They reached out to me – after being long-term friends – and requested me to work on the revival of the wine program.”

Lindgren is the wine director and co-owner of Italian restaurants SPQR and A16 in San Francisco, as well as a second A16 restaurant in Oakland, Calif. (All three restaurants previously held Wine Spectator Restaurant Awards for their wine programs.) She is also the co-author of Italian Wine and a strong advocate for wines from Southern Italy.

When it all began: Malliouhana reopened and debuted its new wine program in November for the 2023–2024 season.

About the new wine program: “[We] have approximately 3,300 bottles to start with,” Lindgren stated about the resort-wide program, which includes over 300 labels. Lindgren is collaborating with Malliouhana food and beverage manager Delroy Lake and Albert Lake, the veteran sommelier who developed the original Malliouhana wine program for Roydon. “It is a significant legacy for [Albert Lake], given his 40 years of service as the island’s most respected sommelier,” Lindgren added. “Working on this project is truly an honour.

More than 20 wines are being served by the glass, inclusive of Chablis from La Chablisienne, a few Ports and more. Additionally, Lindgren has expanded the sparkling list with grower Champagne.

The main focuses: France is pivotal, with vinos from Burgundy, Bordeaux, the Loire Valley and the Rhône Valley. These are complemented by offerings from Italy—including Piedmont’s Gaja and Tuscany’s Antinori—as well as California, Oregon, Argentina, Chile, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. “We aspire that guests visiting Malliouhana would discover many new wines along with familiar styles and selections,” stated Lindgren, emphasizing that much of the list carries a “coastal” element, illustrated by Txakolina from Spain and Assyrtiko from Greece.

Room for dessert: The revamped dessert wine program offers about a dozen choices, featuring a beerenauslese from Austria’s Kracher, vendange tardive from Alsace’s Léon Beyer and Tokaji Aszú from Hungary’s Oremus Tokaji.

Wine-and-Dining Experiences: Each Malliouhana eatery also possesses “exclusive selections” from California and Europe. Celeste, the signature restaurant, supplemented bottles to pair with executive chef Robert Hopkin’s Caribbean- and Mediterranean-styled cuisine; these encompass wine from Tansy, a California maker that concentrates on Italian varieties and Italy-inspired wines that Lindgren co-launched with business associate Kitty Oestlien in 2020. Bar Soleil, an oceanside Caribbean-cuisine location, serves wines from Mediterranean island areas like Corsica, Sardinia and Sicily. Additionally, the beach-based Leon’s at Meads Bay presents an “All Day Rosé” selection. “The [Malliouhana] menu varies, but mainly revolves around Mediterranean tastes, making the European influence on wine feel like a natural match,” expressed Lindgren. “The fresh seafood is the primary highlight with a local lobster exclusive to Anguilla, conch, tableside ceviche and pasta.”

Looking ahead: Lindgren and her squad plan on hosting wine-centric dinners quarterly; Lindgren is also initiating an A16 pop-up takeaway outlet this month and will soon kick-off an educational program on gastronomy and wine.—C.D.

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About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!