Telecom Pioneer’s Vineyard Produces Dramatic Cabernet Sauvignon: A Rising Star in California’s Wine Industry

Skipstone vineyards with mustard flowers

Steep terraced vineyards at Skipstone

It was as if a dream had come to life with the steepest slope he had ever seen; beautifully maintained Cabernet Sauvignon vines tucked away into hand-carved terraces. Few things impressed this self-established telecom pioneer, despite his worldwide travels and experiences of every kind of natural beauty one could envision. He originally hadn’t considered winemaking, yet the awe-inspiring power of this estate was an irresistible allure. Within an hour, he purchased the property.

Fahri Diner is a man known for his audacity to take on challenges and dream big, regardless of his lack of connections and wealth. Raised on the island of Cyprus, located east of Greece, he comes from a farming family passionate about producing olive oil. An academic scholarship allowed him to study electrical engineering at Florida Tech in the U.S., and he later became the founder of Qtera, a fiber-optic company, which was eventually sold for a staggering $3.25 billion. Despite venturing into other businesses after Qtera, Fahri decided to pursue another passion rooted deeply in his family. He aspired to reconnect with small-scale farming and creation of high-quality produce like his family’s olive oil. The question remaining was, would he stay in Florida? Return to Cyprus? Or find a ranch in the stunning state of California?

View of terraced vineyards from the Residence at Skipstone

Fahri undertook a familiar ritual when faced with a significant decision. He went to a lake and skimming a stone, if it bounced thrice, he would go to California to search for a ranch to return to his agricultural beginnings. It indeed hopped three times, and thus began his two-year quest for a distinctive property throughout California, ranging from as far south as Santa Barbara to as far north as Alexander Valley in Sonoma County. Many advised him that Napa was the ideal location, but Fahri always trusted his instincts and did not find any suitable properties. Then, in 2001, someone introduced him to a property in the Alexander Valley area in Sonoma County. The moment he saw the terraced vineyards situated on an incredibly steep slope, he realized that this was the place he’d been looking for, especially because it had olive trees for olive oil production.

In the beginning, the grapes harvested from the vineyards were sold to local wineries. However, Fahri was frustrated that these unique vineyards weren’t getting the recognition they merited. Consequently, he assembled a team of industry experts, among them world-renowned winemaker Philippe Melka, to create wines that captured the unique character of the place and aptly named them Skipstone. Fahri’s journey back to his roots intertwined with his love for the U.S.—the country that offered him ample opportunities for success. This journey has now hit full stride with the recent completion of the new Skipstone winery and the appointment of up-and-coming winemaker, Laura Jones, as head winemaker.

Landscape view with terraced vineyards and Skipstone estate during winter

Alexander Valley may not be a household name for Cabernet Sauvignon wines. However, it is regarded by many in the California wine industry as one of the most critical wine regions for Cabernet Sauvignon, just behind Napa Valley. Many established wine producers source their Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from Alexander Valley, often overlooking the region’s significance. There are some ultra-premium Cabernet producers who proudly display Alexander Valley on their labels. Nevertheless, it’s frequently the wine producer, not Alexander Valley, that captures the customer’s attention. This obscurity was a part of what attracted Fahri to this region; it was an underdog, like him, that deserved someone to unearth its full potential.

Laura Jones

Fahri’s new head winemaker, Laura Jones, is another underdog. Born in Wyoming, she built a solid reputation through intelligence, talent, and hard work. Initially on the path of medical research in California, a chance meeting with someone in the wine world redirected her to a new direction. She completed her graduate program in Viticulture and Enology from U.C. Davis, following which she worked in exceptional wineries in California like Aubert Wines and Cliff Lede. She also spent time in New Zealand and Burgundy, France, namely at Domaine Armand Rousseau, granting her a global viewpoint on winemaking.

While only 27 acres out of the 200-acre estate house vineyards, Laura’s first action was to implement precision viticulture practices. This practice assesses the subtle differences between each plot, for which she installed three weather stations―one on the steep hillside, one closer to the flatter part of the vineyards, and one halfway up the hillside. During the summer, temperature differences between some parcels can range between seven to eight degrees.

Laura Jones at the sorting table

One of the things that Laura enjoys about Skipstone, besides the outstandingly unique vineyards, is the presence of a full-time vineyard crew. This is unusual as most vineyard crews are temporary, hired for peak seasons. However, given Skipstone’s 180-degree amphitheater with a striking 60% slope, consistent year-round work is required due to the immense labor needed to maintain vines in these extreme conditions. Juan Alcantara, Skipstone’s vineyard manager, has been there for 16 years and half the crew has been there for 15 years. It is an anomaly in an industry plagued with high turnover. Laura sees this as a beneficial factor because it enables her to steadily refine vineyard management alongside the same team. The group has been practicing organic techniques, with CCOF certification since 2008. Laura is eager to focus further on the specific expression of each plot, examining the rock-laden soils for their concentration boosting properties, the gravel areas ideal for growing Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, and the clay-heavy plots where Merlot and Malbec prosper.

Woman making notes in a field

Philippe Melka will continue as a consulting winemaker, but Fahri understood that to elevate the wines, he needed a dedicated head winemaker for Skipstone. He was undoubtedly impressed with Laura’s educational and work background. However, her lack of industry privileges made her story even more remarkable. He knew that beyond a just pedigree, capturing the magic in a bottle requires someone who can challenge conventions and commit their life to the business. Laura doesn’t just possess the spark he looks for when embarking on a new venture, but being married to Skipstone’s general manager, Brian Ball, assures her full dedication to the winery.

Witnessing any married couple’s journey reveals the individual aspirations each person harbors. In fact, Laura and Brian’s path was set along these lines right from the time they met at U.C. Davis. Despite having worked with renowned producers, Laura understood that changing team dynamics were inevitable. This uncertainty could potentially disrupt the team’s synergistic progress. However, frequent visits to Brian at Skipstone and engaging conversations with Fahri about excelling painted an enticing picture. The stunning vineyards, the burst of flavors in the wines, and the long-term commitment of the team were worth noting. All her global learnings seemed to pave the way to what she could truly achieve as a part of the wine family at Skipstone.

The bird’s-eye view of the Residence at Skipstone is a sight to behold.

Offering the resplendent experience of living as a vintner, the Residence at Skipstone opens its doors for stays. Previously home to Fahri, his wife Constance, and their children, the residence oozes luxury. Dressed in stones from the property, the house resembles a European castle. Similarly, sinks carved and polished from single boulders of the estate add to the opulence. Other attributes of this majestic 8,344 square foot home include five en-suite bedrooms and a gourmet kitchen. The couple decided to move back to Switzerland, wanting their kids to grow up amidst family. Their home now accommodates up to ten people. An estate director ensures all needs are met, including reservations at top-tier restaurants, winery tours, access to the Mayacama Country Club’s golf course, and wine tasting arrangements. There’s an option to purchase wine tastings that include not only Skipstone wines but also choices from Fahri’s personal cellar. This includes vintage Bordeaux, classic Napa and Sonoma producers from the early 1990s to 2000s and a wide selection of Champagne.

Apart from this, Skipstone also plans to construct an impressive hospitality center by adding a second floor to their winery. Sustainability being the core of these initiatives, they aim to be a 100% renewable energy-powered winery and gun for Platinum certification from the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED).

Lineup of Skipstone wines

2021 Skipstone, Preface Proprietary Red Blend, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, a blend of various Cabernet Sauvignon parcels on the estate. Preface is a selection from Cabernet Sauvignon vines that make a wine that drinks well at an earlier stage and it is at an approachable price point, so it is a great introduction to the Skipstone portfolio. This wine also allows for a stricter selection for their flagship, Oliver’s Blend. Lovely balance with red cherries and black raspberries with hints of broken earth and a beautiful texture finishing with a pretty floral quality.

2021 Skipstone, Malbec, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California: 100% Malbec. Since they have a fair amount of Malbec that does really well in the clay-dominant parcels, they wanted to make a varietal bottling of Malbec to showcase that particular section. Laura loves the “inherent deliciousness” of their Malbec as they go out of their way to thin the crop, sometimes 50%, to get the highest quality. Yet, she balances out the fruit’s generosity by placing a portion of the wine in amphora, which brings out a savory quality. Decadent dark fruit with juicy blueberry and plum tart on the palate with a hint of allspice and dry herbs with a silky texture and long, flavorful finish.

2021 Skipstone, Ripple Effect, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California: 92% Cabernet Sauvignon with 8% Merlot, mainly from the Skipstone estate vineyards, with a tiny portion coming from another plot on the hillside outside of their estate. This wine is called Ripple Effect because they sourced a small amount from a hillside outside of their estate, it is the ripple effect of Skipstone emanating out of their vineyards. This wine illustrates the parcels on the estate that have more mountain fruit quality, which has slightly firmer tannins and high-toned fruit; hence, why they sourced outside fruit that would help highlight those qualities. Cocoa nibs and sandalwood incense on the nose with black cherry skins and broader tannins give more structure and shape with a vibrant and well-focused finish.

2021 Skipstone, Faultline Vineyard, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California: This wine is a blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, inspired by those found on the Right Bank. The blend percentages are adjusted each year, and the grape parcels lie atop a fault line. Situated on the active Mayacamas fault line, the location of these vineyards actually reduces risk of major catastrophes by relieving geological pressure. The site is also recognized by the U.S. Geological Survey which has three permanent installations on the property, declaring it an official earthquake measuring station. The wine itself presents an aromatic journey akin to a forest walk, filled with notes of tree bark, morels, and a delightful palate of elegant red and black fruit. The fine-structured wine carries a long, expressive finish, reminiscent of wildflowers.

2021 Skipstone Oliver’s Blend Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California: This wine is pure Cabernet Sauvignon, composed of grapes from a handful of parcels within the estate. The majority of the grapes come from the oldest vines on the terraced hillside, along with a few blocks from the non-terraced slope. The 2019 hardvest was small, minting only 2,000 cases of this exceptional wine. The lush texture is striking, pairing beautifully with a complex mix of aromas, including crushed rocks, fresh tobacco, and vibrant fruit. This amalgamation delivers a remarkably stunning wine that catches the senses.

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About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!