In Memoriam: Enrico Scavino, Piedmont’s Iconic Winemaker, Passes away at 82

Scavino, a member of the Barolo Boys, exhibited a bold willingness to blend traditional and modern approaches in his pursuit of superior winemaking.

The wine landscape of Piedmont mourns the loss of an esteemed figure. Enrico Scavino, aged 82 and head of the Paolo Scavino winery, passed away on February 25 following complications from surgery.

Known as one of the “Barolo Boys”, Scavino was part of the revolution in the 1990s that saw Barolo winemaking in the region get a modern makeover. This fresh approach to Piedmont’s renowned red mesmerized the world. Contrastingly, while many wines of the era relied heavily on the use of new French oak during maturation, Scavino’s Barolos did not. Instead, he focused on achieving balance and elegance in the vineyard – principles still evident in his wines.

“Enrico Scavino could be described in numerous ways – a tireless worker, and undeniably a gentleman,” explained Luca Currado and Elena Penna-Currado, previously owners of Vietti, in a message to Wine Spectator. “Though countless memories come to mind, the first that arises is his consistently positive demeanor and radiant smile.”

The family’s estate in Castiglione Falletto was set up in 1921 by Lorenzo Scavino. The family in 1943 decided to separate the estate between the two family branches, Papa Scavino set up Paolo Scavino. Enrico, grandson of the founder, was just 10 years old when he started working at the winery. Harboring immense passion for his vineyards and a driven constant ambition for improving his wines, he worked more than 70 harvests. Collaborating with his father, he vinified and bottled their pioneer single-cru wine, Bric dël Fiasc in 1978. Moreover, he spearheaded the expansion of their vineyard territories.

In 1993 Scavino started employing rotofermentors. This elevated both the speed and productivity of the maceration of his Nebbiolo grapes, allowing for the extraction of color and tannins in lesser time (6 to 12 days instead of 20 to 30 typically). The purpose was to extract the right forms of tannins—those from the skins but excluding the seeds.

Yields were conserved at a low, keeping in mind the balance of the grapes in order to retain freshness. Grapes from vines with age less than 15 years was put up for sale. Post the fermentation, his Barolos were stored a year in French oak barriques, 35 to 40 percent which were new, rest a year old. After concluding a year, the wines were placed into large wooden casks. Scavino felt storing for two years in barriques would dry the wines. “This represents our philosophy,” he quoted during a winery visit a few years ago. “Our goal is to extract the best from our vineyards and display the uniqueness of each cru and not overflow of oak.”

Paolo Scavino is presently guided by the fourth generation: Enrico’s daughters, Elisa and Enrica.

“His unquenchable enthusiasm for vineyards guided him to assemble an unparalleled legacy of historical Barolo vineyards for his family,” expressed Luca Currado. “He ceaselessly pushed himself both in the vineyard and the winery. Now, he leaves behind for his two daughters, Elisa and Enrica, a genuine brand and an excellent company that never sought compromise, but only the highest quality.”

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About the Author: Chris Lehoux

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