Thomas Keller’s Ambitious Plan to Resurrect Iconic South Florida Restaurant

The world-renowned chef and restaurateur behind Napa’s French Laundry is returning to his roots to revive Ta-boo in Palm Beach

Thomas Keller is set to open a new restaurant in Palm Beach, Fla. When is still unclear. What we do know is that it will be located at 221 Worth Ave., the former address of the locally beloved restaurant Ta-boo. Based on documents filed by the property owners, we also know that there are plans for interior remodeling, but, outside of repairs, no plans for any major exterior changes—including the signage.

A letter of intent drafted by Dailey Janssen Architects says of the project: “The Ta-boo restaurant is a landmark on Worth Avenue serving the town and residents since the 1940’s. It is deserving of preserving and restoring.”

In May 2023, Ta-boo was forced to close due to an eviction suit after 82 years in business. The bar and restaurant had been a popular local hot spot, drawing celebrities visiting South Florida and local regulars. But it needed renovations, and when a new owner purchased the building in 2019, it did not renew the lease.

Less than a week after owner Franklyn DeMarco closed down, it was confirmed that Thomas Keller took over the lease and would be establishing a new eatery in the same location.

The Palm Beach town council plans to congregate next week to assess a business development recommendation that encompasses expanding the present area into the building next door. The eviction complaint prompting Ta-boo’s closure was initiated by 219 Worth Avenue Holdings, LLC, cited as the applicant on the freshly submitted development recommendation. The proposition seeks to transform the additional area into a “BOH kitchen office environment and … ancillary cooking and storage vicinity,” as conveyed in a Planning, Zoning and Building Department employee memorandum.

Additional specifics of the internal renovation are anticipated to echo the past: utilization of similar materials and shades, renovating existing murals in collaboration with the original artist and even suggesting the new bar location to be the same as the previous one, all “preserving the eatery’s historical atmosphere”.

Keller was born in California, but relocated to Palm Beach during his childhood. During his teens, his initial restaurant job was a dishwasher at the Palm Beach Yacht Club. Eventually, he climbed the ladder to attain the cook position. Additionally, Keller is a former student of the local Lake Worth Community High School and Palm Beach Junior College.

Last December he visited his high school alma mater and spoke to students in the culinary program about a restaurant’s legacy. “My aspiration today in my life is to make sure my restaurants are generational restaurants.” With over 80 years behind the name, a new Ta-boo could be just that.

As with any project seeking government approval, there are no guarantees on how long the project will take. “We are finalizing the design and plan,” Laura Cunningham, his wife and business partner, told Wine Spectator. “When ready, we will be releasing more information in late 2024.”

Keller owns several restaurants across the country, including five Wine Spectator Restaurant Award winners, most notably Per Se in New York and the French Laundry in Yountville, Calif., both of which have earned the prestigious Grand Award.

Stay on top of important wine stories with Wine Spectators free Breaking News Alerts.

About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!