Passing of Marco Felluga: An Italian White Wine Visionary from Friuli, at 96

The respected winery’s founder has passed away and his family has announced a new collaboration with the Tommasi family of Valpolicella

Marco Felluga, recognised for crafting exceptional white wines that positioned the Collio area of Italy’s Friuli-Venezia-Giulia region on the worldwide wine radar, passed away on April 3. He was 96.

“The Collio region and Friuli have incurred a significant loss,” expressed winemaker Silvio Jermann of Jermann winery. Jermann mentioned that Felluga, alongside winegrowers Count Douglas Attems and Mario Schiopetto, spearheaded the initiative to uplift wine quality in the Collio region, advocate for the appellation’s elevation to DOC status, and establish a regional wine producers’ consortium. “Collectively they shaped the modern Collio and brought international recognition to the Friuli region. He was an outstanding wine maker and an illustrious individual, his absence will impact us deeply.”

The announcement of Marco’s demise came just before his family formalized a new association with the Tommasi family of Valpolicella. The Tommasis have bought a majority share in the Felluga family’s winery and two estates—Marco Felluga and Russiz Superiore. However, Marco’s granddaughter Ilaria will continue to lead the wineries.

The Felluga family has been involved in Italian wine production since the 19th century. Post World War II, they made Friuli’s Collio region their new home, and brothers Marco and Livio each set up their respective wineries. Marco’s establishment bears his name, launched in 1956 in the town of Gradisca d’Isonzo, which is approximately 80 miles northeast of Venice and sits near the Italian-Slovenian border. Both siblings believed strongly in the potential of their region to produce high-quality wines, especially its white varietals. By joining hands with other similar producers, they played a significant role in the birth of the Collio DOC in 1968.

Recognized for being a trailblazer, Marco made a daring choice to reduce yields, alter vine training, and implement other unconventional methods in his early career. Even today, his determination to create aged white wines stands out. Rejecting the mainstream trend of producing light, easy-to-drink Pinot Grigios that northern Italy is famous for, he crafted the Pinot Grigio Collio Mongris Riserva cuvée, which is aged on the lees for two years prior to bottling.

In 1967, Marco decided to further invest in the Collio region by acquiring the Russiz Superiore estate in Capriva del Friuli, along with 125 acres of vineyards. Instead of integrating this new production into the Marco Felluga’s range of wines, he transformed Russiz Superiore into a distinct brand. However, he consistently emphasized his philosophy of aging the wines before releasing them, to ensure their longevity. For example, the Collio Russiz Superiore Col Disôre is aged for one year in French oak barrels followed by another year in the bottle; while the Pinot Bianco Collio Russiz Superiore Riserva spends three years aging in oak and an additional year in the bottle.

“For Marco, America was always of paramount importance,” expresses Brain Larky, the Founder and CEO of Dalla Terra Winery Direct, which has served as the US importer of Felluga’s wines since the ’90s. “Marco always prioritized the promotion of Friuli, Collio, and Marco Felluga. He was perpetually intertwined with his cherished region.”

Roberto, the son of Marco, collaborated with his father for numerous years prior to his passing from cancer in 2021. Following his demise, Ilaria, Roberto’s daughter, assumed control of the wineries. With the financial assistance of Tommasi, she presently oversees the estates. “Our collaborators and I will keep leading the companies,” proclaimed Ilaira. “Tommasi Family will aid me with investments for expansion and evolution. The fundamental principles will consistently be the ones that my grandfather Marco and my father Roberto chose to establish their labor and way towards the wine world.”

“Marco demonstrated futurist thinking in adhering to regional viticulture of high quality,” expressed Massimo Zorzettig, who shares ownership of Tunella, a winery located in the adjoining Friuli Colli Orientali appellation. “He significantly contributed towards enhancing the territory as well as the premium wine of Friuli-Venezia-Giulia. He resonated as one of the elder figures of the Friulian wine.”

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About the Author: Chris Lehoux

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