Reviving Venice’s Golden Age of Wine: The Impact of Dorona and The Islands

Venice, a historical crossroads of wine trade, is experiencing a revival centered on its unique Dorona di Venezia grape, an indigenous variety known as the "Golden Grape." Despite its significant past, Dorona almost faced extinction; however, the grape has been rediscovered and revitalized thanks to dedicated efforts.

The story of wine in Venice is intertwined with its maritime history, as the city once thrived as a major wine trading hub. Over centuries, grapes like Malvasia and Dorona were cultivated throughout the islands, nurtured by the unique terroir that showcases a blend of honeyed flavors with salty undertones.

Following a catastrophic flood in 1966 that submerged the city, Dorona was deemed extinct. It wasn’t until 2002 that Gianluca Bisol of the Bisol 1542 family stumbled upon a remnant of Dorona vines at a historic basilica on the island of Torcello. Recognizing the heritage, he relocated these vines to the historic estate of Scarpa Volo on Mazzorbo Island, where he began anew. Despite warnings about unsuited saline soil conditions, Bisol planted the vines, asserting the importance of preserving tradition.

In 2010, the first harvest was celebrated, yielding wine bottles that featured gold leaf integrated into Murano glass, symbolizing Venice’s rich legacy in wine, gold, and glass-making. Today, the flagship wine, Venissa Bianco, stands out for its unique amber-gold hue and remarkable complexity, while a counterpart, Venusa Bianco, showcases a brighter taste profile.

Beyond the singular journey of Dorona, there is a wider resurgence of Venetian wine culture. In 2019, a historic vineyard was replanted in the cloisters of San Francesco della Vigna, where Glera and Malvasia now flourish, producing a limited edition sparkling wine that supports local educational initiatives. Simultaneously, the IsolaLeVignole project has introduced new Dorona plantings alongside the revived Trattoria de Vignole, offering an immersive taste experience that reconnects visitors with Venice’s agricultural roots.

This rejuvenation places Venice within a larger trend across Italy, where urban vineyards are being cultivated to bring attention to forgotten grape varieties. Italy now boasts over 30 urban vineyards, more than any other country in the world. Among them, the revival of grapes like Dorona underscores a commitment to protecting and highlighting viticulture that is both culturally and historically significant.

Through the lens of the Dorona story, Venice exemplifies resilience, showcasing how traditional grape varieties can be preserved and flourish again, enriching both local culture and the global wine landscape.

About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!