Defining ‘Old’ in the Modern World of Wine: A Commentary on Aging and Appreciation

Wines made from old-vine grapes captivate connoisseurs due to their resilience and the depth of flavor they offer. These ancient vines, which have survived decades of environmental challenges and historical events, produce fruit that transforms into exquisite wines. Grapes were first cultivated 11,000 years ago, but the varieties seen today are significantly different due to numerous upheavals in viticulture, including the devastation caused by the phylloxera root louse in the late 19th century.

Currently, the oldest known living vine resides in Slovenia, dating back to the 17th century, with some specimens in northeastern Italy being around 350 years old. This backdrop emphasizes the relativity of the term "old vines" when used on wine labels. In California, zinfandel vines from the late 1800s exemplify the state’s venerable plantings. Immigrants cherishing the grape for its productivity adopted phylloxera-resistant rootstocks, enabling cultivation across diverse climates without the need for irrigation.

Determining what constitutes “old” in wine is subjective; winemaker Andy Robinson from Seghesio Family Vineyards notes that he considers any vine older than 50 years as old. His Old Vine Zinfandel primarily comprises grapes from vineyards over 75 years old, with a notable 10% sourced from vines over 130 years.

Identifying an old vine is fairly straightforward; they exhibit thick, twisted trunks low to the ground, showcasing years of endurance. Wines crafted from these zinfandel grapes offer an intense experience—rich in wild blackberry flavors and exotic spices, with an alcohol content ranging from 15% to 18%. As these wines age, they develop complex structures, integrating acidity, which allows them to age gracefully.

Zinfandel’s popularity peaked in the ’80s and ’90s, with iconic producers gaining a loyal following. However, its appeal has waned somewhat in recent years, despite it being the third-most-planted variety in California. Today’s wine enthusiasts often prefer these fruit-forward wines with familiar pairings like barbecue ribs, pasta, and pizza.

Recognizing changing tastes, many producers have sought to moderate the previously dominant jammy character of zinfandel. Blends with varietals like petit sirah have become common. Notable zinfandels worth trying include:

• Seghesio Family Vineyards Old Vine Zinfandel Sonoma County 2023 ($40): Known for its intense raspberry and blackberry flavor balance.
• Marietta Cellars Roman Zinfandel Family Series 2020 ($28): A blend made with insights from decades of zinfandel evolution, featuring a mix with barbera and petit sirah.
• Bogle Old Vine Reserve Zinfandel 2022 ($28): Notable for its moderate tannins and bright fruity characteristics.
• St. Francis Winery & Vineyards Old Vine Zinfandel Sonoma County 2021 ($22): A good example of richness and juiciness at a more accessible price point.

Venturing into less-known wineries can yield delightful surprises. Lynmar Estate, located in Russian River Valley, produces standout chardonnay and pinot noir. Founded in the early ’80s, Lynmar focuses on small-batch, family-operated wines. Their releases like the 2022 Susanna’s Vineyard Chardonnay and 2021 Quail Hill Pinot Noir are refined and complex, showcasing the unique terroir of their vineyards.

Wine recommendations also include:

• La Crema Monterey Pinot Gris 2024 ($20): A vibrant option for spring, perfect with grilled shrimp.
• Cuvaison Napa Valley Estate Chardonnay 2024 ($35): Offers substantial depth with fresh fruit and hints of vanilla.
• Trapiche Oak Cask Malbec Mendoza 2025 ($11): A budget-friendly choice with rich blackberry notes and subtle cocoa hints.

Old vines tell a story through their fruit, and the wines made from them can bring those tales to life. For more insights into wine selections and their origins, visit moreaboutwine.com.

About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!