Advancements in ‘Smoke Taint’ Science Outpace Insurance Standards: What It Means for the Wine Industry

Wildfire smoke poses an escalating threat to wine regions on the West Coast, but the science of smoke damage in grapes and wine is evolving at a pace that outstrips the insurance standards that compensate growers. At a recent summit hosted by the West Coast Smoke Exposure Task Force, researchers shared new insights into how smoke impacts wine quality, while crop insurance specialists highlighted a reliance on outdated methods for assessing damage.

In recent years, significant fires in North Coast counties—like those in 2017, 2019, and 2020—led to massive grape crop losses. For instance, the 2020 fires alone resulted in an estimated loss of up to 325,000 tons of grapes and financial damages exceeding $600 million. Research into smoke damage intensified following a notable fire in Mendocino County in 2008.

One of the most troubling byproducts of smoke exposure, according to Elizabeth Tomasino, a sensory scientist at Oregon State University, is not merely a smoky aroma, but an ashy aftertaste that develops after consuming the wine. This unpleasant taste can linger for up to two minutes. Growers and winemakers are therefore advised to test for both free and bound forms of smoke compounds, as these can affect wine quality long after harvest.

Emerging research is increasingly focusing on thiophenols as a significant contributor to this ashy flavor. The sensitivity to these compounds varies by grape variety; some may tolerate higher levels without detriment, while others, like Riesling, may be more affected.

Efforts in smoke management are emphasizing an understanding of how smoke compounds infiltrate grapes and how to mitigate their effects. Current practices suggest that washing grapes post-exposure may not remove compounds effectively. Researchers advocate using barrier sprays made from materials such as clay to reduce smoke uptake but also warn that inappropriate washing techniques could exacerbate the problem.

The research includes exploring technological solutions to treat smoke-damaged wine. Trials are underway for various filtration methods capable of reducing both free smoke compounds and certain bound compounds. Researchers are even investigating biological approaches to modify yeast in a way that would degrade problematic compounds during fermentation.

While scientific advancements expand, crop insurance standards are adapting at a much slower rate. For instance, crop insurance typically requires the identification of specific compounds, like guaiacol, for claims related to smoke damage. Yet many growers face challenges as wineries often reject fruit based on elevated smoke markers that aren’t necessarily covered under existing guidelines.

To address this gap, new smoke index coverage utilizing satellite data to track smoke exposure at the county level is being introduced in multiple states, providing an innovative solution to compensate growers without relying solely on laboratory testing.

With rising climate change impacts leading to more frequent and intense wildfires, researchers are calling for additional funding to enhance smoke exposure studies. They aim to develop rapid detection tools and broader databases of smoke markers to help bolster the wine industry’s resilience against future wildfire smoke events.

About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!