A Taste of California Wine History

A recent blind tasting in San Francisco offered a rare chance to explore a broad range of well-cellared California wines from the 1960s and ’70s. A collector shared bottles from their cellar over a home-cooked dinner, and the group was surprised by how many remained sound and enjoyable—especially since most had been bought at auction over the past two decades. The host noted that older bottles are far less reliable when opened at home without a group of carefully selected examples.

California’s wine industry was much smaller in the era these wines came from. In 1974, the state produced about 243 million gallons—roughly half today’s volume and around a third of its 2017 peak. About one-third was unfortified sweet wine. Napa had roughly 40–45 wineries in 1975, while Sonoma had about 35–40 in 1973. The most widely planted grapes in 1972 were Carignane, French Colombard, Zinfandel, Grenache, and Barbera, together accounting for about 44% of production. The average grape price in 1974 was $146 per ton, compared with $978 statewide the previous year.

Many wine drinkers regard the 1970s and early ’80s as a high point for California winemaking, citing lower alcohol levels, greater tolerance for herbal notes, and a focus on wines intended to age. Cabernet Sauvignon is the variety most often associated with mature California bottles, though Petite Sirah can also age remarkably well. Some Zinfandels from the period remain compelling, while older Pinot Noir is less common.

Old wine is not to everyone’s taste, but a successful bottle can offer a singular mix of complexity and history. These tasting notes show both the unpredictability of age and the character that can endure.

Tasting notes

All of these wines are now collector’s items. For anyone considering a purchase, bottle provenance matters greatly.

• 1977 Villa Mt. Eden Chardonnay, Napa: Candied citrus, butterscotch, honey, herbs, and sassafras, with a silky texture and softened acidity. Some oxidation and heat, but still alive. More intriguing than thrilling. Around 8.5/10.
• 1972 Freemark Abbey Petite Sirah, Napa Valley: Black cherry, prune, chocolate, cola, and herbs, with lively acidity and lingering tannins. Complex and surprisingly delicious. 9–9.5/10.
• 1979 Niebaum-Coppola “Rubicon” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley: Prune, molasses, stewed black cherry, licorice, and hoisin. Still has acidity, though it feels somewhat tired. 8.5–9/10.
• 1977 Keenan Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain: Black cherry, mint, molasses, licorice, herbs, and hoisin, supported by strong acidity and mountain freshness. Around 9/10.
• 1976 Caymus Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley: Bright cherry, herbs, mint, and road-dust notes, with fresh acidity and powdery tannins. A delicious reminder of Caymus’s artisan beginnings. 9–9.5/10.
• 1962 Charles Krug Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley: Dried cherry, dusty earth, herbs, redwood, and licorice, with excellent acidity and a surprisingly long finish. Around 9/10.
• 1962 Charles Krug “Vintage Selection” Cabernet Sauvignon: Dried cherry, herbs, road dust, and licorice, with good acidity, but less clarity and appeal than the standard bottling. 8–8.5/10.
• 1971 Ridge “York Creek” Petite Sirah, Spring Mountain: Black cherry, smoked meat, licorice, tobacco, and soy, with savory notes, good acidity, and a soft, powdery texture. 8.5–9/10.
• 1970 Ridge “Jimsomare” Zinfandel, Santa Cruz Mountains: Stewed cherry, prune, herbs, and savory sauce-like aromas. It retains acidity but feels flat and tired. 8–8.5/10.
• 1975 Heitz “Martha’s Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley: Black cherry, cola, herbs, and hoisin, with excellent acidity, length, and supple tannins. Tasted from magnum. 9–9.5/10.
• 1976 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley: Black cherry, herbs, plum, licorice, and smoked-meat notes, with a saline edge and exceptional freshness. The standout of the evening. 9–9.5/10.
• 1974 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley: Black cherry, licorice, roasted fig, herbs, and earthy depth. Good, though not as impressive as other bottles of this vintage. Around 9/10.
• 1960 Inglenook Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley: Black cherry, plum, fig, licorice, and brown sugar, with minty freshness and remarkable acidity for a 66-year-old wine. Around 9/10.
• 1978 Cuvaison Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley: Black cherry, stewed plum, earth, mint, and licorice, framed by muscular tannins and fresh acidity. It still seems to have life ahead. 9–9.5/10.
• 1966 Martin Ray Cabernet Sauvignon, California: Sharp, angular, and volatile, with vinegar and red-fruit notes. It has not aged well. Around 7/10.
• 1974 Sterling “Reserve” Cabernet Sauvignon, California: Black and sour cherry, herbs, licorice, and lively acidity. Fresh but somewhat volatile. 8.5–9/10.
• 1974 Stag’s Leap Winery “Cask 23” Cabernet Sauvignon, California: Dried cherry, herbs, cola, and cocoa, with powdery tannins and impressive freshness. One of the evening’s favorites. 9–9.5/10.

About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!