California Cult Bubbles and More: The Latest from Ultramarine and Cruse Wine Co.

Michael Cruse’s winemaking is guided by a rare mix of scientific curiosity and a practical goal: making bottles people want to open. Trained in molecular biology at UC Berkeley, he worked in academic labs before moving into wine. After gaining experience in Napa, he set up his own custom-crush facility in Petaluma and began making wines under two labels.

The first was Ultramarine, a small-production sparkling wine made with fruit from the celebrated Heintz Vineyard on the Sonoma Coast. Its extended aging and limited supply have made it a California cult favorite. Cruse also founded Cruse Wine Co., which offers pét-nat, sparkling, red, and white wines intended to be more approachable in both style and price.

Cruse says he wanted to move away from the increasingly expensive wines he had been on track to make in Napa. He has kept prices for Cruse Wine Co. bottles steady for a decade, while Ultramarine has risen gradually over 11 vintages. The latter can command far more on the resale market because of its scarcity.

His approach to California sparkling wine embraces ripe fruit without letting it become overly fruity. Oxidation, carefully managed, is one tool he uses to build depth. It can influence the wine during pressing and fermentation, barrel aging before the second fermentation, and blending with older reserve wines. Slow pressing and barrel fermentation expose the juice to oxygen, while barrel aging allows measured micro-oxygenation. For the “Tradition” sparkling wine, a perpetual reserve dating back to 2015 adds further complexity.

The result, in the reviewer’s view, is a balance of fruit and savory character. Ultramarine’s single-vineyard sourcing lends its wines extra precision and finesse, while the Cruse Wine Co. bottlings offer a more accessible expression of Cruse’s style.

Cruse is equally attentive to acidity in still wines, particularly those made from Valdiguié. Once often mislabeled in California as Napa Gamay, the variety can show lively acidity alongside floral and berry flavors. Cruse considers it one of his favorites, though it has been difficult to sell. The Valdiguié bottling and the easy-drinking Monkey Jacket red blend are highlighted as strong values that may be overlooked beside his sparkling wines.

The wines tasted included pét-nats, rosé and traditional-method sparkling wines, Chardonnay, Valdiguié, and the Monkey Jacket blend. The Cruse Wine Co. range showed freshness, savory detail, and attractive value. Among the Ultramarine releases, the 2021 Charles Heintz Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noirs stood out for their striking mineral character, energy, and long finishes.

Tasting notes

• 2023 Cruse Wine Co. Ricci Vineyard Pét-Nat Rosé of Saint Laurent — $36: Fine bubbles and a soft mousse accompany peach, orange creamsicle, plum, and citrus peel.
• 2025 Cruse Wine Co. Deming Pét-Nat Rosé of Valdiguié — $35: Refreshing and faintly sweet, with orange peel, white peach, berries, and dry herbs.
• NV Cruse Wine Co. “Tradition” Rosé Sparkling Wine — $60: Silky and aromatic, with orange peel, berries, flowers, and excellent acidity.
• NV Cruse Wine Co. “Tradition” Sparkling Wine — $50: A savory blend with roasted nuts, dried orange peel, herbs, and a long, energetic finish.
• 2021 Cruse Wine Co. Blanc de Noirs — $60: Distinctive and saline, with crushed nuts, rosemary, bitter herbs, and chalky texture.
• 2024 Cruse Wine Co. Rorick Vineyard Chardonnay — $32: Delicate lemon, white flowers, and stony mineral notes.
• 2023 Cruse Wine Co. Rancho Chimiles Valdiguié — $33: Bright blueberry and boysenberry, floral notes, lively acidity, and a stony grip.
• 2023 Cruse Wine Co. Monkey Jacket Red Blend — $27: Boysenberry, blackberry, licorice, and dried herbs, balanced by fresh acidity.
• 2021 Ultramarine Michael Mara Blanc de Blancs — $190: Floral and poised, with citrus, toasted nuts, chalk, and a long finish.
• 2021 Ultramarine Charles Heintz Blanc de Blancs — $190: Electric yet generous, with lemon, sourdough, sea air, and pronounced chalky minerality.
• 2021 Ultramarine Charles Heintz Blanc de Noirs — $172: A rich, silky mousse carries cherry, saline citrus, and a lingering candied-citrus note.
• 2021 Ultramarine Charles Heintz Rosé — $180: Berry, citrus peel, and saline sea-air notes in a softer, elegant style.
• 2021 Ultramarine Hirsch Vineyard Sparkling Rosé of Pinot Noir — $160: Strawberry, biscuit, dried herbs, and crushed nuts, with a persistent herbal finish.

About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!