Exploring Perfection: A Review of the 2021 FUTO Estate CFX Red Blend

Once, my wine reviews at Vinography focused primarily on individual bottles. However, as my workload increased with more bottles arriving for evaluation, and with larger tastings and visits to wineries, my articles shifted away from singular reviews. It has been more than a decade since I last focused exclusively on one wine, but today, I am thrilled to write about a remarkable new release that has earned a perfect 10 out of 10 on my rating scale.

Gem of An Estate

Nestled in Napa, specifically off Oakville Grade, FUTO Estate emerged from a property once known as Oakford Vineyards, sold in the mid-1990s. Initially approached to join in purchasing the 40 acres, Tom Futo declined, allowing a friend to buy it instead. Years later, when that friend’s wife took ownership and soon grew weary of the vineyard, it was Futo who seized the opportunity to acquire the estate.

In 2002, Futo collaborated with viticulture expert David Abreu and winemaker Marc Aubert to rejuvenate the estate. Over the years, they built a new winery and replanted the vineyards with a substantial focus on Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Futo approaches winemaking similar to attending one exceptional concert instead of multiple mediocre ones, prioritizing quality over all else in creating what is now considered one of Napa’s premier estates.

After several years, Jason Exposto joined as the head winemaker, and his steady presence has become rare in Napa’s fast-changing landscape. The winery expanded again in 2011 with a new Stag’s Leap property purchase, maintaining a commitment to cultivating top-tier wines from premium vineyard sites.

Further Focus on Farming

Under Exposto’s management, FUTO Estate achieved full organic certification and adopted a no-till farming method. The vineyard incorporates permanent cover crops and feeds compost teas directly to the vines at pivotal growth phases. This meticulous vineyard management allows Exposto to practice a minimalist winemaking approach, resulting in balanced wines that stand apart in a competitive market.

FUTO’s wines demonstrate restraint, emphasizing acidity and lower alcohol over sheer power. Each fermentation employs ambient yeasts in stainless steel, with minimal manipulation in the cellar, including a preference for co-fermentation. After approximately 22 months of aging in a combination of large-format oak and smaller barrels, FUTO produces limited quantities of some of Napa’s finest wines.

With their 2021 vintage, FUTO Estate now offers six wines: two Cabernet Sauvignons from different properties, a Sauvignon Blanc, and a new Cabernet Franc-dominant blend labeled CFX, which is the subject of this review. The portfolio displays a unique identity, allowing for a distinct representation of each vineyard.

What is Perfection?

The concept of perfection, akin to infinity, seems far-fetched—yet rating wines allows us to open discussions around what qualifies as "perfect." A score of 10 doesn’t indicate a lack of flaws but rather a wine’s overall captivating experience. It aligns with the Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi, where imperfection can enhance beauty.

Despite the absurdity of quantifying a wine experience into one number, the practice serves to facilitate communication about it. I don’t score many wines as a perfect 10, making this particular rating noteworthy—indicating that if you can afford it, you should indulge in this wine.

2021 Futo Estate CFX Red Blend, Oakville, Napa, California
This inky garnet wine offers aromas of black plum, blueberries, and violets with notes of herbs. It delivers stunning acidity, and flavors of black plum, cherry, blueberry, and dark chocolate create a remarkable tasting experience. Finely-textured tannins provide a luxurious mouthfeel, while notes of violets and fresh herbs linger in the finish. Comprised of 45% Cabernet Franc, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 16% Petit Verdot, this inaugural vintage is truly exceptional. Produced in a limited quantity of around 400 cases, it commands a price of $600.

While this price point may be out of reach for many wine lovers, the insight into these high-caliber wines is valuable as readers ponder what they deem worthy within the wine world.

About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!