Celebrating 50 Years of Limestone Dreams: Reflecting on Calera Pinot Noir’s Journey

You may have heard of the late winemaker Josh Jensen, famed for his striking presence and unique sense of humor. With a background steeped in wine education and experience, he left a lasting legacy in the world of California Pinot Noir that paved the way for many current and future winemakers.

A Journey of Passion and Obsession

Born in Akron, Ohio, and raised in the San Francisco Bay Area, Jensen’s academic pursuits led him to Yale University and then to Oxford, where he developed a deep admiration for French food and wine. This passion propelled him to the vineyards of Burgundy, where he secured an intern position at the prestigious Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in 1970. After two harvests at Domaine Dujac, he returned to California, eager to find suitable limestone terroir for Pinot Noir cultivation.

His journey took him to Mount Harlan, a high-altitude region that offered the perfect combination of limestone and climate. In 1973, Jensen purchased a 324-acre property, establishing the basis for Calera Wine Company. Over the years, he planted over 80 acres of vineyards dedicated primarily to Pinot Noir, alongside smaller amounts of Chardonnay, Viognier, and Aligoté.

One of the finest mysteries of Calera’s early days was the origin of the budwood used for planting. Acquired from Burgundy, these cuttings led to the formation of the Calera Clone of Pinot Noir, recognized for larger clusters and berries with thicker skins—a true representation of Jensen’s commitment to preserving wine heritage.

Upholding Tradition in Winemaking

For five decades, Jensen remained steadfast to the Burgundy-making philosophy he learned, employing whole-cluster fermentation and using minimal intervention techniques. This unyielding adherence to tradition has cultivated a unique style in Calera’s wines, which often exhibit robust tannins and significant aging potential.

After Jensen’s passing in 2022, winemaker Mike Waller, who had worked at Calera alongside Jensen, took the reins. Under his leadership, the winemaking practices have endured, with only minor adaptations, reflecting both Jensen’s legacy and adaptability to contemporary challenges.

Calera became certified organic in 2008, although Jensen had long practiced organic farming methods prior to this certification. The vineyards, while facing challenges of reduced yields due to various environmental factors, continue to produce grapes with high acidity and structure.

Pioneering Single-Vineyard Wines

Jensen was not just a pioneer for Pinot Noir; he was also a trailblazer in marketing single-vineyard wines, a concept not widely embraced in California at that time. His commitment to presenting distinctive vineyard-label wines set a precedent that resonated within the wine community and educated consumers about the importance of terroir in winemaking.

Today, Calera Pinot Noirs stand as rich reflections of their origins, able to evolve magnificently over time, contrary to the trend of lighter California Pinots. Jensen’s wines are known for their robustness and depth, often reaching peak drinking conditions well into their third decade.

Legacy and Tasting Notes

Calera wines have consistently proven to improve with age. The recent 50th Anniversary celebration showcased a selection from their extensive library, highlighting how these wines develop nuanced flavors over time, from bold fruits to delicate earthy notes.

Noteworthy recent selections included:

• 2022 Calera “Reed Vineyard” Pinot Noir: Featuring vibrant notes of raspberries and cherries, this wine offers a harmonious blend of fruit and earthiness with a score between 9 and 9.5.

• 2022 Calera “Jensen Vineyard” Pinot Noir: Richly layered, with blueberries and floral aromas, it showcases muscular tannins with a score between 9 and 9.5, evidencing the strength of the site.

As emotion and dedication continue to define the vinicultural landscape, Josh Jensen’s legacy endures in each bottle produced at Calera, affirming a beloved tradition in winemaking and a deeper connection to the land.

For further exploration of Calera Wines, you can visit their website: Calera Wine Company.

About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!