Michel Mina’s Newest Culinary Venture: Orla Debuts at Mandalay Bay, Las Vegas Chris Lehoux, March 6, 2024 The latest restaurant from the chef’s roots is a draw; in addition, a French brasserie makes its home in West Hollywood, and the owners of Nice Matin turn their attention to Levantine flavors in Manhattan. The driving force: The culinary brain behind Orla, a new Las Vegas restaurant, is none other than chef Michael Mina and his Mina Group. The creators of a dozen Wine Spectator Restaurant Award-winning venues, Mina and his group are responsible for spots like Bungalow Kitchen in Tiburon, California, Estiatorio Ornos in San Francisco, and seven Bourbon Steak locations across the country. Joining forces with the Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino, Mina’s restaurant has taken the place of Hubert Keller‘s previous restaurant, Fleur, at the resort. Why it’s worth noting: Although Mina was born in Cairo, Egypt, he was brought up in the United States and oversees various restaurant themes, including four others in Las Vegas. However, Orla stands as an exemplar for the chef’s in-depth exploration of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean flavors, a nod to his heritage. To complement the menu, the large and impressive wine list curated by Corporate wine director and Master Sommelier Jeremy Shanker features a majority of Mediterranean wineries, including some lesser-known ones from Lebanon, Santorini, Croatia, Sicily, and Corsica. The opening: Doors to Orla were first opened to the public on January 16, 2024. The culinary approach: A three-course prix-fixe menu is available for the table at $97 per person; it includes a variety of starters and main courses, side dishes for sharing, and two desserts to share. The à la carte menu is also designed for sharing and is divided into several categories: cold and hot mezze dishes, grains and pastas, fish and grilled meats and accompaniments. Many dishes draw from Mina’s heritage and have been developed over several years, as Shanker explains. “When I see the food being served, I remember the dishes that the chef was creating in 2018 and 2019,” Shanker told Wine Spectator, referring to the evolution of a specific dish, Mina’s Egyptian-inspired stew of mulukhiyah (jute mallow) with tomato-shellfish and leeks. In addition, Shanker pointed out the New York strip steak flavored with hawaij (a Yemenite spice mix) and served with matbucha (a Morrocan dish of cooked tomatoes and red bell peppers), charred scallions, and white yam. This dish puts a new twist on the classic steak and potatoes. What’s on the wine list: Orla started with 1,600 labels on the wine list, compiled by Shanker, who has been collaborating with the Mina Group since 2015, initially at the now-closed RN74 in San Francisco. After two years, in 2017, Shanker became the head sommelier at Mina’s flagship restaurant in San Francisco, Michael Mina, which closed in 2021. Shanker’s list is a gold mine for wine enthusiasts, boasting a wide vertical and regional selection, especially from countries around the Mediterranean, including the Levant. Moreover, California, particularly Napa Valley, is well represented. Wines from this region range from new vintages by Shafer and Caymus to older and rarer bottlings such as 1980s Grace Family Cabernets. For lovers of matured wines, there’s an extensive collection of Montrachet from Burgundy and older Bordeauxs like a 1947 from Pichon Longueville Lalande and 1949s from Cheval Blanc and Latour. Shanker’s list also includes older bottles from Chateau Musar in Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley, including 1997 and 1975 blends of the Obaideh and Merwah grapes. “In the right vintage, it’s one of the great wines of the world,” said Shanker. The design: New York firm Parts and Labor Design conceived an inviting and earthy space at Orla. The dining area displays a variety of accents in white, pink, blue, gold and orange. Two substantial olive trees dominate the room, complemented by vaulted ceilings and woven chandeliers for a Mediterranean touch. Meanwhile, the Odyssey, a segregated space from the main area, is a private dining room that can hold up to 22 people. —Aaron Romano Who’s behind it: Situated along Beverly Boulevard in West Hollywood, Amour is a fresh venture by restaurateur Thomas Fuks, the proprietor of the nearby Members restaurant and nightclub. Fuks also co-founded 111 Agency, a marketing agency with operations in Los Angeles and Paris. The restaurant’s executive chef is Dani Chavez-Bello, previously of Spain’s renowned El Bulli and New York’s Bouley, both currently closed. Thibaud Duccini, alumnus of the Wine Spectator Grand Award winning Wally’s in Beverly Hills, is the general manager and wine director. When it opened: Amour opened its doors on Dec. 22, 2023. Why you should know about it: Amour offers an elevated French brasserie atmosphere with a mix of French culinary classics and Japanese influences across its two tasting menus and à la carte menu. The concise wine list is a dream for lovers of French wines, and guests can also enjoy a lively bar area and a lounge with a fireplace. The restaurant operates in the space formerly occupied by Dominik’s, an iconic West Hollywood eatery that closed in 2015. The space has largely remained empty since 2018, when successor restaurant Verlaine closed. The culinary approach: Fuks describes Amour’s cuisine as traditional French dining with lighter and more approachable options. “The Los Angeles consumer can be tricky,” he said, noting that Angelenos are known for following healthful dieting trends. “We wanted to accommodate [them] but still offer a full experience.” For example, the à la carte menu offers two tartare dishes: One is based around beets and the other, more traditional, features steak and a quail egg. A carpaccio made from celery root also leans toward the lighter side. Alongside the five- and eight-course tasting menus are separate vegetarian and vegan tasting menus, which include dishes like vegan chawanmushi (traditionally an egg-based custard) and a kohlrabi “steak” with mushrooms in a truffle glaze. Diners seeking French fare can find dishes such as sole meunière, steak au poivre and boeuf Bourguignon. What’s on the wine list: Duccini has compiled a list of about 100 selections, 80 percent of which are French. “There’s little California and Italian, but it made more sense, [considering the food], to focus on French,” he said. The by-the-glass program’s two dozen offerings give attention to smaller wineries and lesser-known regions such as Saumur in France’s Loire Valley. “It allows for more curiosity and education,” explained Duccini. Meanwhile, the bottle list explores primarily Burgundy and Bordeaux, with aged bottles such as Château Cheval Blanc St.-Emilion Le Petit Cheval 2011 and Château Palmer Margaux 2012. The neighborhood and design: West Hollywood is known for its lively atmosphere and buzzy restaurant scene. Fuks’ wife, Abbie, designed the restaurant, which drips Parisian elegance with 18th-century French wood floors, antique lights and tapestry chairs in a candlelit space featuring gold, emerald and earth tones. “We really wanted it to look authentic and feel like you’re in a French house,” said Fuks. Outside, the restaurant’s brick-lined, garden-like courtyard offers a chic yet cozy vibe.—A.R. Who’s behind it: Acadia is a novel dining establishment inaugurated by esteemed New York restaurateur Simon Oren in collaboration with Chef Driven Hospitality group. Why you should know about it: Acadia counts as the fifteenth venture within the Chef Driven Hospitality range, which includes the Grand Award recipient Nice Matin, Best of Award of Excellence holder Barbounia and Award of Excellence recipients Dagon, Isabelle’s Osteria, Marseille and Nizza. When it opened: Acadia welcomed its first patrons on Dec. 13, 2023, located on West 57th Street and Sixth Avenue in the heart of Midtown Manhattan. The culinary approach: Acadia finds inspiration for its culinary creations in the open-air bazaars and unique spice blends hailing from the Levant region of the Eastern Mediterranean. “The motivation emerged from memories of my childhood in Haifa, Israel,” Simon Oren conveys to the Wine Spectator via electronic mail. “I wished to integrate elements of my heritage into New York, a city that has become my home.” Alongside Oren, Chef and collaborative partner Ari Bokovza presents small sharing plates known as mezzes, such as the chicken liver mousse and hummus with braised leek. The menu also lists varied other options like an eggplant carpaccio, squid ink tagliatelle pasta, and mains like the duck-merguez cassoulet and black bass tagine. “My aspiration is for Acadia to act as a platform for the thriving of Levantine cuisine in the city”, Oren expresses with hope. What’s on the wine list: As at Oren’s other restaurants, beverage director Aviram Turgeman leads the wine program at Acadia. The roughly 175 selections on the list (representing a 2,000-bottle inventory) include 20 Champagnes and sparkling wines, plus more than 20 wines served by the glass. France is a main strength, with options from leading wineries in Alsace, Beaujolais, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Languedoc-Roussillon and the Rhône Valley. Those picks include bottles from Château de Beaucastel, Chandon de Briailles, Château Gloria and more. Selections from other Mediterranean countries cover Spain, Portugal, Italy, Israel and Lebanon, while California choices touch on Sonoma Chardonnay (Kistler), Napa Cabernet (Mount Eden Vineyards and more.) “I think we are bringing [Levantine] flavors with a translation to the people who are new to it or not familiar with it,” said Turgeman, who came to New York from Israel in 2001. “One can try a Moroccan Syrah with a shawarma-spiced lamb neck; I think it is a first for many!” Turgeman hopes the wine experience at Acadia will be “the easiest-going and friendly,” with selections fit for all guest preferences. The design: Scott Kester designed the two-floor, 100-seat restaurant, which boasts an open kitchen, a brass rotisserie and a tabun oven for making bread. The space also features a 2,500-square-foot mezzanine, two bar areas and three private dining rooms.—Collin Dreizen Keep up with the latest restaurant news from our award winners: Subscribe to our free Private Guide to Dining newsletter! About the Author: Chris Lehoux Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored! Wine