Exploring Three New Natural Wine Bars in San Jose, San Anselmo, and El Cerrito

Over the past decade, there has been a significant increase in the number of natural wine bars around the Bay Area. Their presence is particularly strong in Oakland and San Francisco, though they are beginning to expand to other local areas. The following three wine bars, all of which have opened within the last year, are notable examples in San Jose, San Anselmo, and El Cerrito.

Natural wine can perhaps be best described as an ideal. Aaron Ayscough, in his book The World of Natural Wine: What it is, Who Makes It, and Why it Matters (Artisan, 2022), suggests thinking of it as wine made from grapes with nothing added or taken away. Of course, there are different degrees of ‘naturalness’, but such wines are generally characterized by some or all of the following: they are made from organically-farmed grapes, fermented using native yeasts, contain no or very low levels of sulfites or other additives, and have not been fined or filtered.

Here are places where you can taste them:

As it approaches its first anniversary, Steven and Ann Huynh’s wine bar focuses on inclusion and accessibility. Growing up as an Asian American, Steven was not exposed to wine or the etiquette and knowledge that often go hand in hand with a traditional wine tasting.

“Natural wine, for me, breaks down those barriers,” he says. “It doesn’t really have a barrier to entry – you don’t need to know anything about grapes or wine varietals. (You can) have a fun experience, where you can learn if you want or just drink a good product and enjoy your time out.”

They even have a Goodtime Bar Run Club, so you can get your exercise in first.

What to try: Made with organic viognier grapes, the 2021 Les Parcelles Pétillantes Bouteillou from France’s Les Chemins de Bassac is sparkling and refreshing. Pair it with the arancini ($14), made with Japanese curry, kimchi mayonnaise, and fontina cheese and topped with nasturtium leaves.

Details: Opens at 4 p.m. Monday, and Wednesday-Friday and 2 p.m. weekends at 30 Fountain Alley #160 in San Jose; goodtimebarsj.com.

The fireplace burns brightly and creates a lively ambiance on a recent Saturday evening at this wine and low-ABV cocktail bar, which started welcoming guests in December with an offering that focuses on natural wines paired with elegant matching food.

Floor-to-ceiling windows characterize this delightful venue located within the town’s famous Cheda Building, established 1911. Beginning its life as San Anselmo’s first cinema in 1914, it transitioned through numerous reincarnations — including pharmacies, a place to relax, a commercial space — before undergoing its final transformation. Now, it is the Voyage Bar, adorned with chic recycled Douglas fir and redwood elements plus antique lighting.

What to try: The menu changes regularly, but the roasted root vegetables dish ($15) is a substantial serving to enjoy with others. You might find yourself discussing the distinction between Romesco and Romanesco as the dish includes both. (Hint: Romesco refers to a tomato-based sauce from Spain while Romanesco is a uniquely shaped variant of cauliflower.) Consider a cold red wine, such as the invigorating co-ferment blend of zinfandel and carignan crafted in Mendocino. The COS “Nero di Lupo,” a biodynamic red from Sicily, exudes a calm, light character.

Details: Open from 5 to 10 p.m. everyday, except for Tuesday evenings at 500 San Anselmo Ave in San Anselmo. Visit voyagebar.com for more information.

Banter exudes an undeniable trendy aura. Originated just a year ago by Claire Sullivan and Devin Hohler, this wine bar may appear as a humble shopfront. However, upon entering, you find yourself pleasantly swept back to a warped ’80s era, complete with retro music posters, striking wallpaper, and a community-contributed assortment of VHS tapes and vinyl records. The premises also house a coin-operated pinball machine.

The bar serves a changing selection of natural wines, with a tempting offer of three half-glasses for $22, providing a grand opportunity to taste various types. The menu is complimented by a selection of small plates, including meat, cheese, hummus, and anchovies priced at $14.

The recomended samples: The light sparkling red, “Ruckus” from Oest Wines, and the fruity and aromatic French Guignier Beaujolais Villages Gamay. Presenting a more challenging choice is the orange Artana Rkatsiteli from the country Georgia. The menu humorously notes descriptors like “vegetal” and “funky.” If you’re craving a light snack, accompany it with a chunk of Acme’s ‘hella wet’ levain bread priced at $5, served with salted Straus butter.

Working hours: The wine bar is open from 4 to 9 p.m. from Tuesday to Saturday and is located at 10368 San Pablo Ave. in El Cerrito. Check out more at banterwine.com.

About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!