Century-Old Wine Producer Crafts Exceptional Rioja Wine from Vintage Vines Chris Lehoux, March 23, 2024 Old grape vine in Rioja, Spain The trembling small hands of the young girl clenched the stem of an infant Tempranillo grape vine as her grandmother filled the hole with soil to establish it. This planting process was a generational ritual, passed from grandmother to granddaughter. The child admired her grandmother’s hands: robust during vineyard work, yet tender when brushing her hair. She aspired to hold similar powerful hands one day, viewing her grandmother as a superheroine in her life. Old vine in black and white In 1882, Rioja, Spain’s wine region, witnessed a surge in wine market due to French producers purchasing Rioja wines to fulfill their own needs as their vineyards were decimated by the phylloxera pest. Thus, the long line of grape cultivators in Rioja expanded their beloved native Tempranillo red grape vineyards. It was an exhilarating era, the grandmother told her lovely grandchild, as their community’s vineyards were finally receiving deserved recognition. The promise of a prosperous and improved life for her granddaughter was a notion her grandmother herself couldn’t fathom. As early as 1893, Rioja fell victim to the phylloxera pest, which took a liking to the roots of the highly esteemed local Tempranillo grape vines. Some vines withered and died, while others only grew stunted. The mood swiftly shifted from optimism to desolation. One elderly woman died from the stress of the situation, leaving her 18-year-old granddaughter as the solitary guardian of their vineyard. Her parents wished to replace the grapevines with grain, but the young woman pleaded to save the one vine she had planted with her grandmother. Despite her pleas, the vine was uprooted, obliterating a cherished memory of her youth and grandmother. However, this tragedy opened the door for a local young man who had secretly admired her from afar. He proposed and offered her a new life in Madrid. Bereft and disillusioned by her parents’ actions, she accepted and departed for Madrid. She married the man, believing that she would never return home. Meanwhile, a man named Ramón Bilbao decided to move from his small hometown of Etxebarri in northern Spain to set up his own business in Haro, which was approximately 60 miles south and the central hub of Rioja. He established a grain warehouse and dared to plant his own vines in 1914, fully aware that another disaster like phylloxera could strike the vineyards. However, in 1929, only five years after Ramón opened his winery, Bodega Ramón Bilbao, he passed away. His son Enrique inherited his dream and actualized it by transforming Bodega Ramón Bilbao into a prestigious wine producer in Rioja. This year, they are celebrating their 100th anniversary. Bodega Ramón Bilbao not only owns its vineyards but has also managed to maintain a long-term association with multi-generational grape growers. This collaboration allows them to source a variety of grapes from numerous small plots, including Tempranillo grape vines that have been flourishing for 80 to over 90 years. Their wine, Mirto, is a testament to this bountiful partnership. Hand-harvesting grape bunches Mirto’s first vintage was in 1999, a year marked by the arrival of Rodolfo Bastida, the technical and general director, at Bodega Ramón Bilbao. While on a stroll through the vineyards in the Rioja Alta sub-region, a local grower mentioned to Rudolfo, “Año de mirto año de vino,” or “year of myrtle, year of wine” in English. He indicated the numerous myrtle plants nested at the plot’s edge, explaining the local belief that healthy myrtle plants suggest excellent vine conditions. The reasoning goes that if the myrtle thrives, then the wine should turn out exceptional. Inspired by this thought, Rodolfo opted to create a 100% Tempranillo wine from various old vine plots, naming it Mirto. The 1999 Mirto turned out to be an excellent wine from the beginning that still impresses after years of cellaring. Mirto represents one among many initiatives led by Rodolfo at Ramón Bilbao. In 2019, Ramón Bilbao established a new winery called Lalomba (meaning hill) dedicated to exploring a single domain named Lalinde, sitting atop a hill in the farthest eastern sub-region known as Rioja Oriental. One part of this vineyard produces an ultra-premium rosé wine. The blend is made from the local red Garnacha grape and the white Viura grape, both from vines nearly 50 years old. The result is a rich rosé with a high freshness and mineral content, which matures beautifully over time. Rodolfo Bastida Rodolfo hails from Rioja, a bloodline winemaker from a lineage dating back to his father and grandfather. He feels a profound sense of accomplishment in devoting the majority of his time tending to the vineyards, acknowledging that the ancestry of winemakers from the 1800s, lived across the expanse of these vineyards. As wine production in Rioja evolved into a more professional endeavor, his grandfather transitioned to lab work, donning his white lab coat, and rigorously analyzing samples to ensure a commercially viable wine product. His father struck a balance between lab work and field work, testament to the established global reputation Rioja possessed as an epicenter of fine wine. Now, Rodolfo finds himself amongst the hallowed grapevines of Rioja, the very heart of an age-old legacy preserved by multiple generations. A lot of years had passed since a young woman abandoned Rioja in the 1800s. In the wake of the Spanish Civil War in 1938, this woman, now in her mid-40s, was left in the company of her daughter and granddaughter, her husband and son-in-law tragically killed. She leveraged an old acquaintance, now returning to Rioja, to dispatch a letter to her parents, telling them about her intended visit, accompanied by her daughter and granddaughter. Eventually, she found herself before the familiar turf of her parents’ house nestled amidst the expansive family-owned land in Rioja, where to her astonishment, nascent vineyards were being cultivated. As her mother opened the door, greeting her daughter, granddaughter, and great-granddaughter with an impassive expression, she marched past them with a bucket en route to the vineyard. They followed behind, torn between awe and confusion, riddled with guilt for abandoning her parents. Her mother placed the bucket near a pre-dug hole, inviting the rest to join her in planting a grapevine. Them tending to the planting stirred a profound emotion within the woman, who now looking at her daughter, robed in shock, broke into a knowing smile as tears welled up. At that moment, she realized that forgiveness was unneeded, as nothing surpassed the importance of family. These stories of generations, of their trials and tribulations, of their relentless commitment to the sustaining tradition of winemaking, is what Rodolfo Bastida cherishes. He painstakingly hears these stories each day as he navigates through the vines crafting his wines for Bodega Ramón Bilbao, each cultivated vine a nod to the stories he seeks to honor. Lineup of Ramón Bilbao Mirto wines Lalomba by Ramón Bilbao 2017 Lalomba rosé wine by Ramón Bilbao 2017 Lalomba, Finca Lalinde, Monte Yerga, Rioja Oriental, Rioja, Spain: A blend of 90% Garnacha and 10% Viura from the single vineyard estate named Lalinde. A stunning rosé with a pale pink color with highlights of copper with grapefruit and lemon zest aromas with creamy lemon meringue and candied violet flavors on the palate with bright acidity and intense minerality. 2022 Lalomba, Finca Lalinde, Monte Yerga, Rioja Oriental, Rioja, Spain: This wine is composed of 90% Garnacha and 10% Viura. They are cultivated in a one-of-a-kind vineyard known as Lalinde. This vineyard is nestled on a slope of the Yerga mountain range. The rosé presents a captivating blend of smoky minerality and a wildflower bouquet. The concoction tastes delightfully of varied berries and succulent white peaches, culminating in a crisp finish touched with notes of damp river stones. Mirto by Ramón Bilbao 1999 Ramón Bilbao ‘Mirto’ Villalba, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain: This wine is purely Tempranillo. It is sourced from plots in the hamlet of Villalba in close proximity to the city of Haro, which boasts vines that are approximately 70 years old. The nose is multifaceted, bearing the aromas of smouldering cigar, fresh tobacco leaf, a hint of bacon grease, and broken earth. These scents are intertwined with rich blackberry notes, exotic spices and exceptionally fine tannins that tenderly caress your palate. 2006 Ramón Bilbao ‘Mirto’ Villalba, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain: The wine is made entirely from Tempranillo. The grapes are grown in plots located in the Villalba village near the Haro town. These plots showcase vines that are roughly 80 years old. The nose reveals charming fruit aromas blended with traces of licorice and fresh herbs. The resulting taste is the luscious fruitiness of black cherries, packaged within a wide-bodied structure. 2010 Ramón Bilbao ‘Mirto’ Ábalos, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain: 100% Tempranillo. This wine originates from the region of Ábalos near Haro, known for its vintage vines about 80 years old. The tantalizing aroma of espresso and cocoa nibs combined with a plush texture, abundant fruit flavors, and intricate notes of cigar boxes and tar make this wine irresistible. 2016 Ramón Bilbao ‘Mirto’ Cuzcurrita, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain: 100% Tempranillo. This wine comes from plots in Cuzcurrita, close to the town of Haro, that house vines surpassing 90 years in age. An captivating aroma of violets leads to a delicious palate of blueberry tart flavors with exceptionally silky and finely crafted tannins. The finish is long and flavor-packed. About the Author: Chris Lehoux Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored! Wine