Revival of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard Nearly a Century After Vine Uprooting

Mustard flowers in the vineyards of Napa Valley

Some ran while others hit the ground and many screamed as two loud bangs rang out at the train station; once the panic subsided, those in the immediate area realized two men lay dead on the ground. And then, the realization that JC Weinberger, an important figure in the local community, was one of those men and someone had to tell his wife and daughter what happened. This incident, although extremely tragic, created a situation in the late 1800s that allowed a woman, Hannah Weinberger, to take her husband’s place as the director of the Bank of St. Helena, in Napa Valley, and, most importantly, to become the first recognized female winemaker in California who would tend to the olive tree grove and vineyards planted on their steep, terraced hillsides.

Central dome of the Machine Gallery at the 1889 World’s Fair in Paris. Artist Louis Beroud.

In 1889, Hannah traveled to Europe to attend the Paris World’s Fair and won a silver medal in a wine competition. She was very successful as a businesswoman and winemaker, never remarrying, yet she had to pull her vines out in 1920, during Prohibition.

Almost 100 years after the vineyard was grubbed up, a couple looking for a site with the potential to make stellar Cabernet Sauvignon with an authentic, rich history planted vines in 2019. Although it has been a long, arduous journey, first purchasing the property in 2013 and waiting for a permit that didn’t go through until the end of 2018, it was a thrilling prospect to be able to revive a great vineyard, which allowed a woman to thrive during a time when her gender made her a second class citizen, and continue the legacy of the first woman in Napa Valley to make great wine.

Caren and Nick Orum are the married couple who took on this Herculean task and they do not shy away from a challenge. Self-described as two Jews from the South, Caren, born in rural Arkansas, and Nick, from Austin, Texas, came to a dangerous New York City in the early 1990s and eventually made their way to San Francisco, where they sought to fulfill Nick’s dream to make great wine as he was a longtime Bordeaux wine lover.

Caren and Nick Orum

So, they searched until they came upon a property near two Napa Valley vineyards that have received seven perfect 100-point scores from Wine Advocate, Vineyard 29 and Colgin’s Tychson Hill Vineyard- north of the town of St. Helena. They brought in vineyard engineers to test the soils and other aspects of the site to ensure if the potential for outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon was indeed possible. Every result assured Caren and Nick that the site did live up to its lofty neighbor’s potential.

The seed of the idea for their vino, Arborum, was planted during this phase. ‘Arborum’ is a concoction of the term ‘arbor’, evoking the essence of their commitment to preserving their property’s natural bounty, and their surname.

The stewardship of Arborum’s Hidden Key Estate Vineyards

The legitimate lineage of the site attracted them to the property where a quintessential house was initially erected as a hunting cabin, blended effortlessly with the wilderness on their territory. Today, it is the home where they reside with their three children. Remarkably, within the forested area, they discovered a cluster of century-old olive trees, with hand-fabricated square nails embedded in them bearing historic metal stamps. This indicated that the tree was planted way back in the 1870s, with some towering up to 50 feet. These trees were overlooked for a prolonged period and eventually merged into the woods. Thus, when Caren and Nick embarked on the labor-intensive task of clearing the undergrowth of their steep, 20-acre property, they stumbled upon these aged, heritage olive trees. The estate is skirted by Spring Mountain, home to a natural spring meandering through the property, and a vibrant biodiverse habitat of hawks, owls, and beneficial insects that keep harmful pests at bay.

With painstaking diligence, Caren and Nick tend to their 2.5 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, which scales from 500 to 800 feet in altitude. They bring Oscar Renteria and his team at Renteria Vineyard Management onboard to execute precise vineyard management through a hands-on approach for each vine. The vineyard earned its organic certification in 2021. Despite this accomplishment, Caren and Nick acknowledged the necessity of recruiting an ideal winemaker capable of capturing and translating the unique attributes of their historic site.

Winemaker Andy Erickson

Caren mentioned that they reached out to a list of eight renowned Napa Valley winemakers, all eager to connect due to the property’s historical significance and proximity to exceptional vineyards. Nonetheless, they selected the exceptionally regarded winemaker Andy Erickson, boasting a holistic approach and a whopping 25 years of Napa Valley winemaking experience. Andy, with his strong focus on site expression and profuse expertise overseeing Cabernet Sauvignon vines on numerous premium Napa Valley sites, refers to the Arborum estate as a “real sweet spot.” He relishes that certain pieces of land provide a sense of potential magic, believing he can craft a wine reflective of that unique spot.

Over a hundred years have passed since the extraordinary Hannah Weinberger won a silver medal in Paris with her wine from this sumptuous property. Regrettably, her vineyards’ prestige was ephemeral as Prohibition led to the uprooting of the vines. As time passed, the place turned unkempt, appearing more like a natural reserve rather than a coveted vineyard. Nick humorously mentions his next-life plan to purchase a property with an existing vineyard, acknowledging their initial underestimation of the time and labor needed for high-quality vineyard planting. That has been the issue with this unique estate – the enormity of the task to restore it deterred many until Caren and Nick Orum stepped forward.

Upon their first property purchase, the presence of an old majestic oak tree in the middle of their circular driveway moved Caren. As the property is adorned with numerous oak trees, her children, aged four, seven, and ten, found it an impeccable spot to play. One remarkable day, their middle child discovered an old key from an oak tree hidey-hole which did not fit their home – an old hunting lodge. Assuming the key was a keepsake from Hannah’s era, they christened their estate vineyards ‘Hidden Key’. Unfortunately, the oak tree split halved days later, destroying the hidey-hole. It was heartbreaking to Caren and Nick as they held immense sentimental value for every bit of their property’s past.

Standing at the spot where a venerable oak tree once marked its presence, Caren felt an inexplicable connection. This was more than just a property handover – it was the legacy of Hannah being passed on. Almost a century later, the roots of the past were intertwining with the seeds of the future.

2022 Arborum Proprietary White & 2021 Arborum Proprietary Red

Set to make their first impression in the Fall of 2024, Arborum is launching with an anticipation-rendering duo of 2022 Proprietary White and 2021 Proprietary Red. Further plans include rolling out a 100% Estate Cabernet Sauvignon soon, with an annual production capacity of approximately 500 wine cases.

Embracing their community and the environment, Caren and Nick Orum have pledged a generous donation of one million dollars prior to Arborum’s launch, laying a philanthropic foundation for their brand. Going forward, the entirety of Arborum’s net profits will be channelled towards charitable pursuits. Half of these donations will be aimed at supporting the inhabitants and workforce of Napa Valley, acknowledging their invaluable contribution to its renowned wines, and extending necessary social assistance and protection. The reminder of the funds will be contributed towards environmental preservation efforts.

Regarding environmental procedures on their land, they conducted extensive soil examinations and slope analyses for beneficial vineyard management data. Additionally, they carried out numerous environment-based studies, both mandatory and voluntary, even checking for the presence of endangered Northern Spotted Owls on the property. If any owl habitats were located, they planned to protect them. As Caren pointed out, it is their aspiration to maintain the tract as a “wildlife passage,” given the scarcity of heavily wooded areas in their region.

The Arborum wine labels are adorned with an insignia of a tiny golden key and another key located on the capsule’s top, signifying the linkage to an old key discovered in an oak tree on their land. Stamp impressions of an aged petrified stump located in their Hidden Key vineyard can also be found on the bottom right corner of the label.

2022 Arborum, Proprietary White, Napa Valley, California: This wine consists of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon, procured from cool climate vineyards in Coombsville. The wine features an inviting bouquet of honeysuckle, white peach, and crushed rocks, along with juicy fruit on the palate, which is brightened by notes of lemon peel, pronounced acidity, and a saline mineral taste. The launch price is $125.

2021 Arborum, Proprietary Red, Napa Valley, California: This is a vibrant wine, 95% of which is Cabernet Sauvignon from Arborum’s Hidden Key Vineyard and the remaining 5%, Cabernet Franc hailing from Pritchard Hill. The wine presents a pure fusion of fruit ranging from black cherries to cranberries, juxtaposed nicely with black currant leaves and cocoa powder. The palate is energetic and balanced with rich black raspberry flavors intertwined with forest floor and volcanic rock hints, all brought together with fine-grained tannins. The finish is lasting and laced with the enchanting scent of violets. It is priced at $265 upon release.

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About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!