The Art of Choosing Wines for In-flight Service: A Comprehensive Look

Ever wonder about the thought process behind the choice of wine or champagne served on an airplane at an altitude of 36,000 feet? It’s not just about choosing a wine that passengers will recognize and appreciate. There are numerous factors to consider including the availability of the wine, the impact of high altitudes on its taste and smell, as well as keeping up with the latest trends in the wine world.

One of the key considerations for a wine purchaser is the quantity available. The volume of wine consumed by passengers on even smaller, long-haul only airlines like Virgin Atlantic is quite daunting. On average, they serve around 9-12 bottles of each type of wine per Upper Class flight.

For larger airlines, the volume of wine required, particularly for economy class, is tremendous. Long haul business class flights typically offer a selection of at least four different wines and a couple of champagne or sparkling wine options. This high demand can exclude wines from smaller vineyards as they may not be able to provide the required quantity or may opt not to.

Undoubtedly, price plays a pivotal role, as the wine’s quality needs to be weighed against the price and other factors. Given the large quantities that airlines make, they typically look for a good deal. However, some vineyards may prefer to sell their products at a higher price in lower quantities on the open market.

The way wines taste mid-flight is also crucial because altitude and cabin pressure can alter their taste. For instance, white wine and champagne may taste more acidic, while the tannins in red wine may seem more harsh. This is primarily because the dry cabin atmosphere can affect your taste perception. When your nose and palate are dry, wines may taste dull. To mitigate this, stay well-hydrated and use a saline spray for your nose. The brighter side is that modern aircraft like Airbus 350 offer more humid conditions than their older counterparts, and this is bound to enhance as aircraft technology advances.

Virgin Atlantic picks its wines in collaboration with Jeroboams Trade wine merchants, their partners. These wine merchants create a shortlist of wines following an evaluation by Peter Mitchell MW and the in-house Jeroboams team. The list is then taken to a panel of Virgin’s own WSET-certified Food and Beverage management team. This activity takes place twice a year, letting them gather varied opinions to choose the finest wines for their passengers. The selection of wines then changes on-board every April and October, keeping pace with the changes in the food menu.

The airline recently shifted its champagne choice to the widely-adored Laurent Perrier and will also serve an English sparkling wine, Hambledon, as the hospitality drink in Upper Class. The airline strives to maintain a balance between old and new world wines, popular wines versus the trending ones. They also take into consideration factors like seasons and ensuring an assortment between lighter and heavier styles to cater to everyone’s taste.

Shiada Drysdale, Beverage Lead at Virgin Atlantic, expressed, “We periodically feature guest wines, which have included English still wines, wines with a sustainable backstory, seasonal wines, and wines that celebrate the roots or origins within our network. In recognition of English Wine Week, we are offering three still wines from England for the month of June. Since 2018, we have also been serving Hambledon English Sparkling and take pride in continuing to offer such an esteemed wine as a signature pour and, more recently, our Welcome Drink.”

British Airways is unique in having its own Master of Wine, Tim Jackson – the only full-time airline master of wine worldwide. The airline switches its wines every quarter, featuring a different British Airways destination such as South Africa for one white and one red wine.

In May, Air France announced it had appointed award-winning sommelier Xavier Thuizat, head Sommelier at Hôtel de Crillon, to develop its future wine, champagne, and spirits catalogue in all cabins and Paris lounges. The sommelier, who hails from Burgundy, will be assembling a new assortment of French beers to pair with the French wines and gin already on offer.

Air France La Première passenger being served champagne.

Air France is known for offering premium wines like Laurent Perrier Grand Siècle champagne in its First class cabin, La Première. Additionally, patrons can savor fine wines like Bourgogne Pouilly-Fuissé Albert Bichot 2022 in business class and Meursault 1er cru Château de Blagny Louis Latour 2020 in First class. Uniquely, Air France is among the rare airlines that serves champagne even in economy class, specifically, Pannier Brut. In a delightful ritual at the beginning of the meal service, business class passengers are presented with a glass of champagne accompanied by a snack.

Even Economy passengers on Air France enjoy champagne.

Xavier voiced, “Joining Air France and collaborating with its teams to curate the wine, champagne, and spirit menu is a immense privilege for me. I am eager to reveal my latest picks and units French-style elegance with the hidden gems of our wine regions, providing you the opportunity to explore France’s vineyards throughout your flight. This is my daily pursuit, while always striving to strike a perfect equilibrium between tradition and contemporaneity.”

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About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!