Exclusive: James MacPhail Reclaims Ownership of MacPhail Family Wines

Hess Persson has sold the northern California Pinot Noir boutique brand back to its original owner after 13 years of acquisition.

The year 2024 is witnessing heartwarming stories of winery acquisitions. Previously, Wine Spectator covered the story where Patz & Hall co-founder James Hall reacquired his winery following its sale to Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. In a similar vein, James MacPhail has repurchased his eponymous brand from Hess Persson, 13 years post-sale and eight years after his tenure as winemaker concluded. The deal includes no vineyards, and the financial terms were not disclosed.

“It feels wonderful to see things come full circle,” remarked MacPhail to Wine Spectator. “It’s rare for a winemaker to witness their own brand return to their hands, reviving its original essence. I deeply value this authenticity,” he added.

James MacPhail established MacPhail Family Wines in 2001. The brand, known for its single-vineyard Pinot Noir sourced from purchased grapes, emerged during a significant period marked by the rise of small-scale wineries in the late 1990s and early 2000s. One distinctive feature of the brand is its use of a Radio Flyer wagon on the label, symbolizing a playful and accessible approach as opposed to traditional Burgundy labels. “I aimed for a design that was fun, whimsical, and approachable,” MacPhail expressed to Wine Spectator back in 2011.

MacPhail wines consistently received excellent ratings from Wine Spectator on their 100-point rating scale. However, the 2008 wildfires in California’s Anderson Valley affected the grapes with smoke taint before the harvesting period, leading MacPhail to decide against releasing any wines from that year. Additionally, his brand suffered due to the global financial crises.

MacPhail was producing Pinot Noir for the Hess Collection under the now-closed Sequana label when he sold his Pinot Noir project to Hess in 2011. He expressed to Wine Spectator that managing a small winery was becoming increasingly challenging, and he wished to return to his primary passion, winemaking.

Post the sale of his brand, MacPhail turned to consulting, focusing on crafting single-vineyard wines. He collaborates with ten different wineries, including The Calling, Sangiacomo, We Know Jack among others. He continues to produce wines for Tongue Dancer, a brand he founded with his wife, Kerry, in 2012. Presently, he is involved in over 70 vineyard sites across eight different appellations throughout California. “I’m a kid in a candy store with all of my projects and vineyards and what I get to do,” he stated.

Swiss entrepreneur and art collector Donald Hess, who established the Hess Collection after buying a vineyard on Napa’s Mt. Veeder in 1978, has investments in wineries across Australia, South Africa, Argentina, and California. Hess passed away in 2023.

The Hess Persson Estates, managed by Sabrina and Timothy Persson from the succeeding generation, focuses on crafting high-end Cabernet Sauvignons. Timothy remarks, “In the past decade, significant investments have been directed towards replanting our estate vineyards in Napa Valley and enhancing our winery facilities that suffered extensive damage during the 2014 earthquake.”

Expansion efforts at Hess Persson include enhancing their Hess Collection Allomi and Lion Tamer Cabernet Sauvignons while introducing Panthera, a new brand showcasing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Sonoma Coast.

Timothy shares, “Our approach to refining our portfolio has been consistent and disciplined, focusing on what aligns best with our goals. It was clear that the MacPhail brand would prosper best under its original owner. Handing back MacPhail to James was a decision that filled me with satisfaction, and I take pride in how we managed the brand during the time it was under our stewardship.”

James MacPhail once contemplated reclaiming his eponymous wine label. He explains, “Growing up in a family business established in 1880 influenced me. I founded MacPhail Family Wines with a blend of naivety and a profound desire to create something lasting for me and my family, a legacy that extends beyond just carrying my name.”.

With the acquisition, MacPhail intends to transform the brand into a boutique establishment focused on producing limited quantities of single-vineyard Pinot Noirs from Anderson Valley. The initial batch will utilize grapes from Toulouse Vineyard, which was the first vineyard MacPhail sourced from when he launched his brand in 2002. He plans to maintain a small-scale production of about 1,000 cases annually.

“I aim to leverage my 29 years of experience in winemaking to improve management and planning, especially in preparation for any potential financial crises or minor challenges that may arise. Learning from past experiences helps enhance execution,” he expressed.

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About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!