Unveiling the Truth: Are Paid ‘Expert’ Wine Reviews Reliable?

Lecturer, Faculty of Business and Law, School of Business, University of Wollongong, University of Wollongong

Paul Chad does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organization that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.

University of Wollongong provides funding as a member of The Conversation AU.

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Wine is the most popular alcoholic beverage in Australia, boasting over 2,100 domestic wineries, alongside a vast array of imports. The variety is vast, with prices stretching from under $5 to upwards of $1,000, which can sometimes leave even the most knowledgeable wine enthusiasts struggling to select the right bottle.

Does a $1,000 wine truly provide 200 times the pleasure of a $5 one? Enjoyment of wine primarily hinges on personal preference (literally). However, without the chance to taste beforehand, buyers need to rely on different indicators of quality.

When purchasing wine, consumers might consider several factors such as the brand’s reputation, reviews/ratings (including word-of-mouth suggestions), specific taste preferences (like type of grape, flavor profile, and sweetness), occasion for drinking, price, and the attractiveness of the wine’s label, packaging, or name.

Moreover, wineries and alcohol retailers often use high scores from wine critiques and showings as a marketing tool. Yet, the real question remains: how valuable are these critiques and accolades?

First, what qualifies someone to be a wine reviewer? Although there are no specific qualifications, reviewers will typically have extensive training and experience in wine appreciation and/or winemaking.

Importantly, wine is generally rated based on its quality relative to other wines of the same grape variety and growing region. This means it is problematic to directly compare ratings across different wine varieties and regions.

Robert Parker, one of the world’s top wine critics, developed a 100-point rating system for wine. While variants exist, the 100-point scale typically starts at 50, with points awarded for colour (5 points max), aroma/bouquet (15 points), flavour/finish (20 points) and overall quality (10 points).

In Australia, James Halliday is a legend of the wine industry and founder of the Halliday Wine Companion, which provides tasting notes, ratings based on Halliday’s own version of the 100-point system, winery ratings and annual awards.

Similarly, the internationally acclaimed Huon Hooke and Bob Campbell (one of few to hold the prestigious Master of Wine qualification) provide The Real Review, which offers wine reviews, ratings, an annual “top wineries” ranking and a “wine classification” system for Australian and New Zealand wines.

Wineries can submit wines to Wine Companion and The Real Review to be reviewed for free. However, the wineries don’t automatically own these reviews, and any subsequent usage by wineries of those reviews for marketing requires a Wine Companion or The Real Review winery membership.

Another Australian-based wine reviewing organisation is Wine Pilot, founded by Angus Hughson. Wine Pilot charges $70 (plus GST) for an individual review, after which the winery can use the review for marketing for free. Similarly, Sam Kim’s New Zealand-based Wine Orbit charges $30 per bottle to review Australian wine, after which the review can be used for marketing.

There are differing views as to whether an upfront fee for a wine review is appropriate – as well as how this compares to offering free reviews and then subsequently charging wineries annual memberships for their use.

This is a question readers will need to judge for themselves.

Stories abound regarding the independence of reviewers and whether they have a vested financial interest in giving high reviews. If a reviewer gives a winery poor reviews, that winery may no longer come to them (and no longer pay them). At the same time the reviewer has their own integrity to consider.

The Conversation reached out to Sam Kim, who said his $30 flat fee helped in running his small business – and that doing the work for free simply wasn’t viable.

As to whether this affected his impartiality, he said: “I would like to say ‘no’, but it’s not up to me to judge. Consumers will ultimately decide that. And given I have been around a while, perhaps I’m doing okay much of the time.”

Angus Hughson from Wine Pilot discussed the “potential for a number of factors to influence reviews by wine communicators,” noting that close personal connections with wine makers could impact their work.

Hughson emphasized that the integrity of wine reviewers is crucial, and that those who inflate scores for more recognition could harm their reputation and “erode their influence in the long term.”

Jacinta Hardie-Grant, managing director at Halliday, mentioned that Wine Companion’s subscription-based marketing does not affect the impartiality of their reviews because tasters are unaware if a winery submitting samples for review holds a subscription or not.

The Real Review was unreachable for comment before the deadline.

Let’s delve into the realm of wine shows and awards. Among these, prestigious events such as the London-based Decanter Awards stand out, alongside various smaller competitions.

It’s common for show organizers to require wineries to pay for participation – essentially, you need to join to have a chance to win. Some wineries opt out, while others frequently participate.

However, there’s a notable concern regarding the judging process in wine shows. The ideal scenario would involve a strict, scientific strategy for selecting winners, yet this may not always be feasible or practical.

In wine judging, the “blind” technique is employed where judges do not know the brand they are tasting, which is beneficial. Despite this, the sequence in which wines are tasted could influence judgments, presenting a challenge.

Wine show results and awards often span different wine varieties and regions, and might include a “Winery of the Year” accolade. These accolades are governed by specific criteria and are sometimes met with skepticism.

It’s important for consumers to understand that these accolades, while rooted in some scientific approaches, remain subjective.

Wine critics frequently publish outcomes from their wine evaluations. Following these releases, my email is often inundated with promotions from wineries touting their award-winning wines based on these critiques and awards.

However, the nature of these evaluations and results is still subjective. Enjoyment of a wine can vary greatly from one individual to another, meaning just because one person recommends a wine doesn’t guarantee everyone will enjoy it.

Adopting the “try before you buy” approach is highly recommended. To do this, consider going to wine tastings at local shops, exploring cellar doors at wineries, or sampling wines by the glass at various restaurants.

When it comes to your next wine purchase, referring to expert reviews or noted awards can be helpful, but ensure it’s economically sensible for you.

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About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!