Discovering Exceptional Value: The Overachieving Wine Vintages from a Top Tuscan Red Wine Producer

The esteemed Tuscan wine producer Grattamacco proudly presented a vertical tasting of their Super Tuscan red wines, highlighting the elegance of the lesser-known vintages.

The lighthouse on Elba Island, situated off the Maremma coast where Bolgheri is located, symbolizes all the enchanting qualities of the Maremma area.

In Bolgheri, Tuscany, the 2008 growing season was particularly delightful for head winemaker Luca Marrone, marking a stark contrast to his challenging first year at Grattamacco, a distinguished Super Tuscan wine producer. He initially faced the dauntingly hot 2003 vintage, a challenge for European vintners unaccustomed to such intense heat. However, that year thrust him into mastering the unpredictable nature of winemaking. The moderate climate of the 2008 season proved fortuitous for Luca, and by 2013, the benefits were evident. The wines had matured exquisitely, displaying pure and vibrant qualities, particularly the 2008 vintage, which, 16 years later, was a testament to the aging potential of these wines.

Luca considered both the 2008 and 2013 vintages to be underrated, yet tasting these wines today reveals their truly exceptional attributes.

Chef winemaker Luca Marrone

Under the guidance of his mentor Giulio Gambelli, an expert in the Sangiovese grape, Luca Marrone adopted a philosophy of winemaking that emphasized subtlety and depth over blatant power. Gambelli advocated for creating wines that reveal their complexities naturally, without the need for overt intensity that disguises their true character.

“In nature, you always have the answer,” Gambelli often reminded Luca during moments of uncertainty about a wine’s development.

The 2008 and 2013 vintages epitomized the type of wine Gambelli celebrated: ones that are not heavily ripe or robustly structured. Despite their authenticity and fidelity to Gambelli’s ideals, they were initially underestimated because they lacked the immediate impact that often generates significant attention and excitement upon a wine’s release.

Punching down the grape skins in the Grattamacco winery

In the case of 2013, Luca felt the wines lacked adequate structure despite their outstanding purity of fruit. Thus, to enhance the balance with a bit of tannic structure, he turned to an age-old winemaking wisdom passed down by Gambelli—seeking solutions from nature itself. Among various methods to introduce additional tannins, Luca opted for an approach similar to that used in crafting Ripasso wines from Valpolicella, a renowned wine region in Veneto.

Ripasso wines are produced using a double fermentation process. Initially, grapes are transformed into wine through fermentation. Then, this wine undergoes a second fermentation instigated by incorporating grape skins left from former wine batches. Unlike the traditional method, however, Luca utilized freshly sacrificed high-quality grapes instead of aged skins to enrich his 2013 wines, yielding an exceptionally structured product.

White clay in Grattamacco vineyards

Grattamacco is celebrated for its vineyards situated on the elevated Grattamacco Hill, standing around 330 feet above sea level. The soil is notably rich in white clay, which is advantageous during warmer vintages due to its high water retention qualities. This feature not only benefits the vine’s growth but also imparts a distinctive characteristic to the wines of Grattamacco. This unique quality was highlighted by a three-year study conducted at U.C. Davis, which identified noticeable differences in the grape composition from Grattamacco when compared to other prominent Bolgheri wine producers.

In addition to their renowned terroir, the expansion involves acquiring a special plot just 325 feet above Grattamacco Hill, known as Casa Vecchia. This plot features a unique microclimate and has been home to 25 acres of newly-planted vines since 1998. Encircled by forests, Casa Vecchia is a prime example of pioneering vine cultivation in the area, known for producing grapes with balanced harmony, remarkable freshness, and aromatic complexity. While other prestigious Bolgheri producers have also planted vines in this location, space has become scarce, and Grattamacco has the largest vine presence in this small, cultivated haven.

Grattamacco vineyards are among the loftiest located in the Bolgheri region.

With the vines of Casa Vecchia maturing, Luca increasingly incorporates them into their premier wine, the Bolgheri Rosso Superiore.

Luca spoke highly of his boss Claudio Tipa, the owner of Grattamacco, hailing his courage to pioneer change and push for higher quality in winemaking, all while adhering to the original principles set by the founder, Piermario Meletti Cavallari. When Piermario entered retirement without a successor for the Grattamacco estate, he leased it to Claudio, who had shown a deep interest in it back in 2002. Noticing Claudio’s dedication and the remarkable improvements made to both vineyard and winery within five years, Piermario decided to sell the estate to him, despite the lease having five more years. It was clear to Piermario that he had found someone who could continue his legacy.

Claudio Tipa embraces organic and biodynamic practices, identifies unique locations, and occasionally sacrifices yield to enhance the quality of a vintage, ensuring the wines remain refined and vibrant amidst trends favoring robust, overly ripe styles. Claudio enables Luca to fulfill the vision of the estate’s original owner, proving that some are willing to preserve a legacy that is not their own but rather one that transcends individual prominence. This makes Grattamacco an extraordinary place capable of producing standout vintages, even in less celebrated years.

Grattamacco vertical

1991 Grattamacco, Vino da Tavola di Castagneto, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Before the Bolgheri Rosso Superiore classification was established in 1994, this wine was labeled as Vino da Tavola di Castagneto. Comprising an equal blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese, the 1991 vintage showcases the potential of underappreciated years. Even after 33 years, it remains vibrant and fresh, with a complex bouquet of earth, dried herbs, and leather, balanced by the purity of red cherry fruit and a hint of salinity at the finish. An underrated vintage that over delivers.

1995 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Rosso Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Comprised of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 15% Sangiovese. The 1995 vintage ranks among the best in the 1990s, presenting itself as a standout with its aromatic profile that includes dried flowers and incense nuances. The palate is plush, featuring rich notes of red cherry pie and blackberry preserves, yet it is distinctively different, not necessarily superior, to the 1991 vintage.

2008 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Consisting of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 15% Sangiovese. This vintage was underrated, attributed to its moderate weather conditions without any extreme disturbances during the growing period. It delivers lovely vibrancy with scents of blackcurrant leaf and fresh raspberries, supported by a subtle stony minerality. This vintage notably outperforms its expectations.

2009 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Made up of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 15% Sangiovese. The year 2009 was marked by a warm, dry summer, yet the white clay soils in the Grattamacco vineyards, which had retained ample moisture from prior rainfall, aided in maintaining vine health. Its profile is characterized by dark, dense fruits layered with licorice and hints of lavender sea salt, packed with rich blueberry tart flavors on the palate.

2012 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Composed of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 15% Sangiovese. Despite the heat of this year, Grattamacco successfully crafted wines that retained vibrancy and freshness, a testament to their efficient organic and biodynamic farming practices which kept the vines balanced, even under harsh conditions. The wine boasts opulent mulberry compote and blackberry scones, intertwined with fresh tarragon notes, offering a lush texture alongside considerable acidity.

2013 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 15% Sangiovese. This cooler vintage may have been underappreciated like its 2008 counterpart, yet it excelled in sophistication and class, presenting lively red raspberries and refined notes of rose oil mixed with spice, alongside sharply defined tannins delivering a prolonged finish, encapsulating remarkable finesse. An underrated vintage that over delivers.

2016 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 15% Sangiovese. Characterized by its warm conditions, this year produced robust and intensely flavorful wines. Despite that, this vintage maintains the characteristic freshness and accuracy of Grattamacco. It offers luxurious tastes of black cherry cobbler and aromatic baking spices, intricately layered with complex essences of asphalt and graphite and hints of wild Mediterranean herbs, culminating in a super smooth texture and lengthy flavor persistence.

2021 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 15% Sangiovese. Early reports by Wine Spectator suggest that the 2021 vintage could be among the finest in the modern history of Tuscany. This wine stands out immensely, exhibiting deep, enticing aromas of smoldering earth and forest floor alongside sweet candied violets. Its flavors mingle cherries jubilee and blackberry syrup atop a spice cake, completed by a silky mouthfeel and ultra-refined tannins, stretching into a lingering finish.

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About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!