Somni Set to Reopen Its Doors in Los Angeles: What to Expect Chris Lehoux, October 3, 2024 After a four-year break, a well-known restaurant makes its comeback with chef Aitor Zabala at the helm. In addition, Prelude has opened its doors in San Francisco while Oregon’s ōkta bids farewell. The return to Los Angeles: The celebrated eatery Somni is reopening in West Hollywood, California, after a four-year pause. Founded in 2018 by chef Aitor Zabala and humanitarian culinary figure José Andrés, Somni—which translates to “dream” in Catalan—quickly gained popularity despite its limited capacity of just 10 guests per service. The restaurant received Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence for its exceptional wine list in both 2019 and 2020. However, the challenges posed by the COVID-19 pandemic ultimately led to Somni’s closure at the end of 2020. In an August Instagram update, Zabala revealed plans for the restaurant’s reopening, now under his sole management with a new seating capacity of 14 at the primary tasting counter. “After four years of dedicated efforts behind the scenes to revive this project, we are thrilled to finally share our space and offer our guests the chance to create new memories and meaningful experiences together,” Zabala expressed to Wine Spectator in an email. When it reopens: December 2024 Wine list highlights: Wine director Caroline Costarella, who previously contributed her talents at the 2024 Grand Award recipient Lazy Bear in San Francisco, has curated an impressive 400-selection wine list, primarily spotlighting wines from California and Spain, alongside selections from regions such as France, Italy, and Oregon. The Rioja offerings stand out with selections from distinguished wineries like R. Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia, La Rioja Alta, and Marques de Murrieta. Additionally, lesser-known Spanish styles and regions such as Txakolina and the Canary Islands are included. In the California section, guests can find noteworthy selections like Dumol, Diamond Creek, and Peter Michael. Wine pairings are included as part of the tasting-menu experience, but guests may choose alternate wines by the glass or beer. Alternatively, there is a corkage fee of $150 per bottle, limited to two bottles per party. The dining experience: Chef Zabala attributes his appreciation for cooking as an art to famed Spanish chef Ferran Adrià, particularly inspired by his cookbook El Bulli: The Taste of the Mediterranean. This perspective will be palpable at Somni, where the understated decor in earthy tones helps direct focus onto the culinary creations. Guests will dine at two adjacent, crescent-shaped tables facing a curved, cream-colored marble slab, serving as the final prep area for Zabala’s culinary masterpieces. A window behind the counter offers a glimpse into the kitchen, aiming to dissolve the boundaries between chef, server, and diner. Unique tableware, designed to enhance the space’s elegant simplicity, will present each dish. Subtle lighting will illuminate each plated dish, akin to how a museum showcases fine art. This culinary journey is priced at $495 per individual. Alternatively, for $995 per person, Zabala provides a tasting menu within a six-seat private dining room next to the wine cellar. Both dining experiences commence with small bites on the patio, weather permitting, before guests are invited indoors. It is important for vegetarians and those with dietary needs to note that the menu is predetermined. —Greg Warner Who’s behind it: Prelude is a recently established Southern-cuisine restaurant from the Omakase Restaurant Group, the same group that operates the Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence recipient Niku Steakhouse. This marks the first opening where Celtin Hendrickson-Jones serves as executive chef, managing the new fine-dining venture located at the Jay hotel, part of the Autograph Collection, which has recently opened its doors in Downtown San Francisco. When it opened: August 22 The culinary approach: Hendrickson-Jones incorporates Southern recipes he learned from his grandmother and mother, with whom he often cooked Sunday dinners. He honors traditional dishes while enhancing them with ingredients from Northern California and modern cooking methods, drawing on his extensive experience at notable California restaurants. Hendrickson-Jones began his career as a sushi apprentice at Morimoto Napa and later advanced to executive sous chef at the Best of Award of Excellence establishment Commis. Subsequently, he took on the role of chef de cuisine at Niku Steakhouse. With a focus on shareable plates, the à la carte menu opens with small bites such as deviled eggs topped with crispy chicken skins, alongside pickles and ferments sourced from Prelude’s pantry, and pimento cheese served with fish skin chips. The small plates feature tomatoes and Galia melon paired with country ham and farmer’s cheese, as well as chicken-fried sweetbreads accompanied by mustard plum sauce. For larger dishes, offerings include hominy grits (meant for sharing) with pickled shrimp and crispy ham, as well as roasted duck breast served with cornbread and green tomato chow chow, a Southern-style relish. “We are preparing to introduce a chef’s tasting menu with some exciting additions shortly,” Hendrickson-Jones shared with Wine Spectator. What’s on the wine list: The wine program at Prelude is curated by Master Sommelier Morgan Harris, who previously served as the head sommelier for Saison Hospitality, responsible for the Grand Award-winning Saison and the Best of Award of Excellence winner Angler. Harris is also an alumnus of Charlie Palmer Group. The wine list shines particularly in selections from Napa Valley, France, and Italy, featuring numerous coveted and aged bottles such as the Duckhorn Merlot Napa Valley Three Palms Vineyard 1985, E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque 1995, and Francesco Rinaldi & Figli Barolo 1964. The by-the-glass selections offer notable options like the 2015 vintage of Trimbach’s Riesling Alsace Cuvée Frédéric Émile, as well as aged Napa Cabernet, both of which pair beautifully with the restaurant’s Niman Ranch rib eye served with braised greens. Prelude’s bar director Franco Bilbaeno, who has experience from Angler, Niku, and the now-closed Michael Mina in San Francisco, crafts Southern-inspired cocktails. The design: In stark contrast to the concrete facade of the Jay hotel, Prelude’s dining area presents a more organic ambiance, enriched with earth-toned aesthetics influenced by the eucalyptus trees and misty surroundings of the Presidio of San Francisco. Guests will find walnut tables, luxurious fabrics, stained-glass details, and softly illuminated light fixtures, all thoughtfully designed by the firm AvroKO.—Chris Cardoso What’s happened: The Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence recipient ōkta, which launched in the Willamette Valley of Oregon in 2022, has unexpectedly shut its doors in McMinnville, Ore. The restaurant was housed within the Tributary Hotel, operated by Katie Jackson and Shaun Kajiwara from the prominent California wine entity Jackson Family Wines. Announcement of Closure: The ōkta team shared the heartbreaking news of their closure in an Instagram post on September 24, stating that the last service took place on September 22. “We have made the difficult decision to close ōkta restaurant,” the post conveyed. “This establishment united numerous community partners, friends, family, and exceptional individuals who embraced a new approach to cooking and cultivating food.” (Attempts to reach key members of the restaurant’s team for further comments were unsuccessful.) An Innovative Culinary Journey: Under the leadership of chef Matthew Lightner, ōkta presented state-of-the-art dining experiences in Willamette Valley, featuring ever-evolving, hyper-seasonal tasting menus that creatively utilized ingredients from the restaurant’s own farm and various local suppliers. Throughout its two years of operation, The New York Times recognized ōkta as one of the most thrilling dining spots in the country. “It was an extraordinary achievement,” the Instagram message continued. “We take pride in what our devoted team accomplished … We extend our gratitude to [Lightner] for his artistry and enthusiasm.” Highlighting Oregon’s Wine Heritage: Wine director Ron Acierto curated an outstanding wine selection consisting of 730 options, which earned ōkta its inaugural Restaurant Award in 2023. This collection served as a tribute to Oregon wines, showcasing rare bottles and library vintages that provided remarkable vertical depth. Furthermore, it emphasized varietals outside of the region’s well-known Pinot Noir, such as Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, cultivated by early pioneers of the area. Although the restaurant is shutting its doors, the spirit that fueled ōkta seems set to continue. As stated in the Instagram post, “We remain dedicated to the Willamette Valley. [Tributary Hotel] and our farm and larder will persist in advancing our vision of blending exceptional hospitality with regenerative farming to narrate the story of this remarkable place.” —Aaron Romano About the Author: Chris Lehoux Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored! Wine