Amidst Escalating Conflict: How Winemakers in the Middle East Continue to Thrive Chris Lehoux, October 9, 2024 Amidst the turbulence of war, bombings, and emotional turmoil, wine producers in Israel, Lebanon, and the West Bank narrate their experiences. The 2024 harvest at Israel’s Daltôn Winery was marked by relentless rocket and drone strikes from Hezbollah-controlled southern Lebanon. As tractors operated at night to gather the final Cabernet grapes, the sky was illuminated by the light of exploding rockets, leading to wildfires that have ravaged parts of northern Israel since Hezbollah escalated its attacks on October 8 of the previous year. Throughout Israel, Lebanon, and the West Bank, the escalating conflict ignited by Hamas’ assaults one year ago on October 7, 2023, has drastically disrupted the lives and livelihoods of winemakers across the region. The harvest season, typically filled with toil and jubilation, has turned into a struggle for survival as hostilities in Gaza persist, with exchanges of fire between Israel and Hezbollah, alongside missile strikes from Iran. Vintners are resolutely aiming to preserve what they have dedicated their lives to creating. While grapes are being collected, deep-seated sorrow is also present. Situated in Israel’s Upper Galilee area, the Daltôn Winery lies mere miles from Lebanon, with some of owner Alex Haruni’s northernmost vineyards almost adjacent to the border fence. Hezbollah fighters can frequently be spotted on the opposite side. Several of Daltôn’s prime vineyards have suffered total destruction due to explosions or fires. Like numerous wine producers in the region, Haruni had to abandon certain vineyards deemed unsafe by the Israeli Defense Forces (IDF). With over 70,000 civilians evacuated from the Golan and Galilee regions, where 40 percent of the nation’s wine is produced, the entire northern section of the country remains deserted, now solely occupied by IDF personnel. Following the conclusion of the harvest in late September, the frequency and intensity of Hezbollah’s assaults have markedly escalated. “We find ourselves seeking shelter more often than we did before, and the most anxiety-inducing moments occur during my commute to and from work, with the odor of smoke and gunpowder lingering heavily in the atmosphere,” remarks Haruni. Each day, he readies the winery, “as if I might not return tomorrow.” He is not alone in this plight and feels fortunate in comparison. In March, the Avivim Winery nearby was obliterated by two rockets launched by Hezbollah, leaving its owner, Shlomi Biton, injured. Galil Mountain Winery, located a mere 200 yards from the Lebanese border, has suffered considerable damage to its vineyards due to rocket strikes. On many days, winemaker David Bar Ilan and his crew are unable to reach their vines, which are situated within closed military zones. Due to enforced evacuations, most wineries have seen a significant reduction in available workforce. Although they are not experiencing a continuous barrage of rocket fire, a small number of wineries in the Palestinian territories of the West Bank have also faced hardships since the onset of the conflict. The Christian communities nestled between Bethlehem and Jerusalem have a storied heritage of winemaking. At the Salesian Monastery on the outskirts of Bethlehem, Cremisan Winery has been crafting wine since 1885, currently benefiting from the expertise of renowned Italian winemaking consultant Riccardo Cotarella. Head winemaker Fadi Batarseh has been at the forefront of reviving grape varieties indigenous to the area, including types such as Baladi, Dabouki, and Hamandi. According to Batarseh, producing and marketing wine in the West Bank has always posed challenges, but the past year has been particularly devastating. “This year, I can’t even refer to it as a harvest—we’ve managed just 30 tons of fruit instead of our usual 250 tons.” Batarseh spoke about completing the 2023 harvest just before Hamas launched an attack from Gaza, initiating a war that led to a complete shutdown of operations. Many Palestinian farmers have found it incredibly difficult, if not impossible, to access their vineyards or olive groves due to military roadblocks and the establishment of additional checkpoints. However, the most significant issue, he explains, has been their inability to sell their wine. “Sales have almost disappeared—our main customers are tourists and locals in the West Bank, many of whom are unemployed and lack permits to work in Israel,” he states. He bleakly notes that the current situation is unsustainable for another year. With widespread poverty comes “outrage, crime, and theft. The economy has crumbled.” Batarseh’s chances of exporting his wines have also come to a near standstill: Palestinian wineries rely on exporting through Israel, and the lockdown has drastically reduced this to a mere trickle. He paints a grim picture regarding economic survival. “We can only hope that peace will reign and life will return to what we once knew.” Unfortunately, the concept of normalcy is often foreign to Palestinian winemakers. “The Israeli-Palestinian conflict looms large over us,” remarks Adam Kassis, who established Domaine Kassis, a small family winery situated in Birzeit near Jerusalem. He also serves as the chief winemaker at the Cistercian monastery winery, Domaine de Latroun. The logistical challenges faced over the past year have been immense, and the resulting anxiety has been debilitating. “This year has been marked by fear and low energy, with constant worries about what tomorrow holds,” Kassis explains. Among all the significant challenges faced in the past year, a labor shortage was not one of them. “Because of this war, many Palestinian workers lost their daily jobs in Israel. Fortunately, we encountered no difficulty in hiring labor for grape harvesting.” Selling the product has proven to be more complicated, however. Similar to Batarseh, he faces export restrictions that have resulted in a 60 percent decline compared to last year. “Wine consumption in Palestine has dropped. People are feeling sad, stressed, and have lost their desire to drink wine.” Unfortunately, conflict and instability have defined Lebanon’s wine industry for many years. During the Lebanese Civil War, the renowned winery, Chateau Musar, completely lost their vintages from 1976 and 1984. In 2006, a 34-day armed conflict between Israel and Hezbollah heavily impacted the small country, particularly the Bekaa Valley, which is now home to around 50 wineries. Nationwide, the annual production stands at approximately 9 million cases. “Once again, we find ourselves victims of a geopolitical disaster. We are captives of the circumstances,” remarks Sami Ghosn, who founded Massaya Winery in 1998 alongside his brother, Ramzi, quickly establishing it as one of the leading names in the country. (The U.S. is the top export market for Massaya.) Ghosn and his family were among the Christian Maronites displaced from their homeland by Palestinian insurgent forces during the war in 1975; he spent 17 years in the U.S. before returning to reclaim his family’s land. In the 2006 war, Massaya suffered damage when nearby factories were bombed—a deeply traumatic experience that he recalls vividly. Ghosn and his team have spent this year’s harvest “constantly scanning the sky, not to analyze the weather, but to watch for drones. There were moments when we were uncertain if we would be able to access the vineyards.” Ghosn exudes a remarkable calmness, a state born from unfortunate experience in turbulent times, as he mentions. However, he confesses, “I would be dishonest if I said that I don’t experience anxiety or wake up at night to check my phone incessantly.” In Israel, many winemakers were concerned that the calls for a boycott of Israeli products, in light of the Gaza conflict, would negatively affect their sales; surprisingly, exports have actually grown. The annual production remains around 40 million cases. Nonetheless, the national trauma following the events of October 7 and the ongoing conflict has led many producers to feel that wine has become trivial or even devoid of meaning. “The essence of selling wine, along with all the positive aspects associated with it, seems to have diminished, and I hope it will revive once the war concludes,” expresses Gilad Flam, who co-founded Flam Winery with his brother in the Judean Hills. “The pain in Israel, Gaza, and Lebanon is unbearable.” Labor shortages have consistently troubled nearly all Israeli wineries; many local workers remain enlisted in military service, while Palestinian workers are unable to cross borders. Like many establishments, Domaine du Castel in the Judean Hills (whose vineyards suffered damage from a Hamas rocket early in the conflict) received assistance from local volunteers who stepped in to help with grape picking. Owner Eli Ben-Zaken reports that the quality of the 2024 harvest is quite high, but he conveys a palpable lack of enthusiasm as he recounts the experience. “As residents of Israel, we are likely experiencing the most challenging period this nation has ever faced,” states Ben-Zaken. With no immediate resolution to the ongoing conflict, maintaining a positive outlook can be incredibly tough, admits Victor Schoenfeld, the head winemaker at Golan Heights Winery, who has just wrapped up his 40th harvest. “This year has been filled with intense emotions, with the nation seemingly enveloped in persistent sorrow,” he shared. Feelings of despair and helplessness can indeed render wine seemingly insignificant, yet the rich tradition of winemaking in the Levant offers vintners a distinctive perspective and a glimmer of hope. “We produce wine on the frontier and uphold our civility,” Ghosn explains. “Our Phoenician ancestors never relied on bombs, wars, or force for conquest. They excelled in craftsmanship and trade throughout the ancient world, with wine at the forefront of their endeavors. This is the legacy we strive to continue. We are people of culture and dialogue, not of conflict and hatred.” Keep yourself informed about significant wine news with Wine Spectator‘s complimentary Breaking News Alerts. About the Author: Chris Lehoux Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored! Wine