When Small-Scale Winemaker Takes on a Giant: A David vs. Goliath Story in the Wine Industry Chris Lehoux, October 16, 2024 Winemaker Adam Lee from Sonoma County is an expert in Pinot Noir. As one of the founders of Siduri Wines, a winery located in Santa Rosa that he sold to Jackson Family Wines in 2015, Lee dedicated two decades to crafting single vineyard Pinot Noir from 13 different appellations along the West Coast. Since 2017, he has maintained a strong commitment to Pinot Noir through his labels Clarice Wine Company, Dial Tone, and Busy Signal, along with a project with French winemaker Philippe Cambie called Beau Marchais, in addition to various consultancy roles in Sonoma and Napa counties. However, Lee’s candid opinions regarding a particularly popular Pinot Noir in America recently created a legal controversy for him. In February, he posted on social media comparing the sugar levels in Meiomi Pinot Noir ($29.99) to his own Dial Tone Pinot Noir ($26.99) from Santa Barbara County. “There is less sugar in 32 bottles of Dial Tone Pinot Noir than in just 1 bottle of Meiomi Pinot Noir,” the post proclaimed, showcasing a photo of a solitary bottle of Meiomi surrounded by a Dial Tone collection. “I suppose I was trying to provoke a little controversy,” admits Lee, who had recently tasted Meiomi at his family’s house in Texas. “I hadn’t had it in years, and I was surprised by how sweet it was.” In September, Lee received a letter from a law firm representing Meiomi’s parent company, Constellation Brands, as initially reported by the San Francisco Chronicle. “As you may know, false advertising is not allowed under federal law,” read the letter dated September 27, 2024. “In order for us to better assess the accuracy of your company’s statement, Constellation requests that you specify the factual foundations for your company’s claims regarding the sugar contents of Constellation’s Meiomi wine.” “I thought, I’m in trouble,” recounted Lee. Established in 2006 by Joe Wagner, a fifth-generation winemaker from Napa Valley, Meiomi quickly became a sensation — particularly among younger drinkers attracted to its reasonable price and fruity flavor profile. However, not all industry critics, including winemakers and consumers, shared the same enthusiasm for the Pinot Noir. Wine journalist Dan Berger described sweeter wines like Meiomi as “faux wine” and stated that they are “crafted to appeal to individuals who essentially do not enjoy wine, or who cannot grasp it.” In a 2017 article from the Press Democrat, Lee remarked that Meiomi’s approach to winemaking “may not be the way I would make wine.” However, he praised Wagner for boosting the appeal of Pinot Noir, further elevating its status following the surge in interest ignited by the 2004 film “Sideways.” “If more people are drinking wine because of that, then I’m more than in favor,” Lee expressed in the article. “I think that is a fantastic, fantastic thing.” In 2015, Meiomi was acquired by Constellation Brands for an impressive $315 million, a deal that surprisingly did not include any tangible assets like vineyards or a winery. By 2017, the brand’s production had exceeded over one million cases of its renowned Pinot Noir annually. Currently, Constellation Brands ranks as the fourth-largest wine producer in the United States by volume, with annual sales reaching 18 million cases, as reported by Wine Business Monthly. As consumers’ preferences for alcoholic beverages evolve, it remains to be seen if Meiomi’s richer-style Pinot Noir will maintain its popularity. However, it is currently securing a notable portion of the market. After noticing Meiomi’s sweeter profile, Lee opted to have its sugar levels tested by ETS, a certified wine laboratory located in Healdsburg. The findings from the ETS analysis revealed that Meiomi Pinot Noir had a sugar content of 19.4 grams (glucose and fructose) per liter, while Lee’s Dial Tone Pinot Noir had a significantly lower sugar level of 0.6 grams (glucose and fructose) per liter. “I couldn’t believe it; that’s 32 times sweeter than my wine!” exclaimed Lee. “That’s when the idea struck me to create a social media post that compared the two.” In February, he shared the image on both Facebook and LinkedIn, but it didn’t receive much attention at the time. Eventually, he let it slip from his mind and moved on. However, things took a turn when Ranchmart Wine & Spirits located in Leawood, Kansas, decided to print his social media post and set up an in-store display. “I had no clue the store was creating a display,” Lee remarked. “I certainly don’t have a marketing budget for something like that.” Upon receiving a correspondence from the attorney representing Constellation Brands, he felt a wave of disbelief wash over him. “Constellation embraces competition within the market, as long as it is fair and does not mislead consumers,” the letter read. “If your company cannot substantiate its claims with objective and verifiable evidence, Constellation will … determine that your company’s advertisement aims to redirect business from Constellation to your firm based on a false and deceptive foundation.” “It’s never pleasant to hear from a lawyer in this type of scenario,” Lee remarked. “However, I possess the ETS report that verifies the sugar levels. That is an undeniable fact.” Constellation Brands did not provide a comment when approached for a response. Nonetheless, their letter emphasized that the company “takes careful measures to ensure that it accurately portrays the nature, attributes, and qualities of its offerings, alongside those of its rivals, in advertising directed at consumers.” Lee believes that finding a resolution to this situation revolves around offering clear information to consumers about what they’re drinking. “I don’t mind people enjoying sweet wine,” he commented. “The main concern is the misunderstanding that Meiomi creates when placed next to dry Pinot Noirs on the shelf.” He notes that German wines, such as Riesling, have their sweetness levels clearly indicated on their labels, which aids consumers in selecting the style they prefer. “I think it’s crucial for retailers or restaurants to assist consumers in grasping the various styles of Pinot,” Lee stated. “These sweeter variations don’t reflect the true essence of what Pinot Noir is meant to taste like.” The next legal action from Constellation is yet to be determined. However, following his lawyer’s guidance, Lee sent a letter to the company in September. “Like most people these days, I care about how much sugar I ingest,” he wrote. “Today, I noticed on the Liquor Control Board of Ontario’s website that the current vintage of Meiomi contains even more residual sugar — listed at 21 grams per liter! Perhaps they conduct their tests differently in Canada, but they sure have made it simple for everyone to find out how much sugar is present in each bottle of Meiomi.” As of now, Lee has not heard back from Constellation Brands. You can contact Staff Writer Sarah Doyle at 707-521-5478 or sarah.doyle@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Sarah on Instagram at @whiskymuse. About the Author: Chris Lehoux Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored! Wine