The Resurgence of a Special Italian Wine: A Response to Growing Customer Demand Chris Lehoux, October 21, 2024 One of the pioneering Super Tuscans in Chianti is celebrating its 40th Anniversary, showcasing that Bolgheri is not the sole region acclaimed for its exceptional Super Tuscan wines. Tuscan house with vineyards It is hard to fathom that Tuscany was once a region plagued by poverty, desolation, and despair, whereas today it represents a dreamlike landscape. The undulating green hills bask in the Tuscan sunlight, bordered by forests abundant with olive trees and truffles; small towns reflect a timeless elegance that is sought after across the globe. However, following the consecutive devastations of World War I and World War II, combined with the financial upheaval that affected the Tuscan countryside, the region struggled for many years. Faced with grim prospects, numerous families opted to leave their lands behind in pursuit of better financial opportunities in the bustling cities of Italy. Antique fountain pen on old notepad Nonetheless, several pivotal families in this wine region remained and contributed to its reputation as one of the finest on the planet, particularly the Mazzei family, known for their role in the renowned wine region of Chianti Classico. The Mazzei family has been integral to Chianti’s legacy for centuries, dating back to 1398 when Ser Lapo Mazzei, a Florentine notary, poet, and winemaker, referenced “Chianti” in a letter as a remarkable wine, one of the finest he had ever tasted. His granddaughter would later marry a gentleman who possessed an estate in Chianti Classico named after his family—Fonterutoli; thus, the Castello di Fonterutoli estate has belonged to the Mazzei family since 1435. Although the Mazzei family recognized the exceptional quality potential of Chianti wines, they faced numerous challenges due to governmental and financial instability over nearly 600 years. This included threats to the Tuscan artisanal lifestyle during the economic hardships of the post World War II period. Giovanni Mazzei, the 25th generation currently managing the Marchesi Mazzei estates alongside his father and uncle, reflected on those bleak times when most locals deemed investing in Tuscany a lost cause. However, some visionaries identified a golden opportunity to shift away from a sharecropper mentality that prioritized crop quantity and instead aspired to achieve exceptional quality in Tuscan wines. The Mazzei family’s mission was to elevate the prestige of Chianti Classico on a global scale. As a result, a “revolution” emerged, as Giovanni described it, which included the innovative idea of incorporating internationally recognized grape varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, made famous in France. Fonterutoli estate The Mazzei family’s quest to unlock the extraordinary potential of Chianti Classico was not a swift endeavor; such challenges stemming from regional poverty and obscurity often require generations to surmount. However, for the Mazzei family, the vision of constructing a lasting legacy far outweighs the decades spent, with their roots stretching back over five centuries. It took considerable time to rally other producers to produce high-caliber Chianti, with the Chianti Classico area denoting the ultra-premium segment of the region. They also faced the challenge of overcoming the negative perceptions tied to inexpensive Chianti that had initially been exported to the U.S. market. Not only did they play a crucial role in establishing the renowned reputation of the predominantly Sangiovese-based Chianti Classico wines, but they also contributed to the “Super Tuscan” movement by introducing Cabernet Sauvignon in the 1970s. In 1981, they introduced a wine named Concerto di Fonterutolis, a blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Upon tasting the inaugural vintage, Giovanni’s grandmother remarked that the Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese “dance together like a concerto,” leading to the inspiration behind the name of this celebrated wine. The dedication that Mazzei has demonstrated in truly conveying the unique terroir in their Chianti wines is remarkable. They established the first gravity-fed cellar in the region and engaged in extensive clonal research to identify the best Sangiovese clones for each parcel. Their work encompasses 114 individual plots across seven sub-zones of Chianti Classico, showcasing the elegance of their wines, as most plots are located at elevations ranging from 720 to 1,870 feet, where cooler temperatures help preserve acidity and aromatic qualities. However, some critics might argue that they excelled too well, as the burgeoning demand in the premium wine market for their Sangiovese-based Chianti led them to cease production of the Concerto di Fonterutoli. Located just west of Chianti Classico lies Bolgheri, a renowned wine region celebrated as the heart of the “Super Tuscans.” This area thrived because it lacked a prominent historical wine like Chianti that could overshadow its innovative wines. Here, traditional Sangiovese grapes were artfully blended with Bordeaux varietals such as Merlot and Cabernet. For a significant period, it was only natural for the Mazzei family to concentrate on the grape that has been their hallmark for six centuries – Sangiovese. After the 1994 vintage, they discontinued the Concerto di Fonterutoli. The year 2011 marked the 30th anniversary of the inaugural vintage of Concerto di Fonterutoli. After a 17-year hiatus, the Mazzei family unveiled a limited release of about 1,000 bottles of the 2011 vintage, allowing Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon to harmonize once more in tribute to the family’s esteemed matriarch. To their astonishment, the wine sparked significant demand, showcasing a unique and distinct character relative to Bolgheri’s offerings, prompting them to reintroduce the wine permanently starting with the 2013 vintage. Today, they jubilantly celebrate the release of the 2021 vintage, marking the 40th anniversary. Concerto di Fonterutoli exemplifies a remarkable fusion of tradition and modernity through its blend of these two grape varieties, reflecting the extraordinary expression from two distinct parcels. The Sangiovese grapes are sourced from some of the finest sections of the lower Fonterutoli estate, characterized by rocky, chalky soils, while the Cabernet grapes are harvested from a small plot nestled amid an oak forest featuring calcareous rocks, both thriving at an elevation of approximately 1,150 feet. This unique geography emphasizes the individual purity and elegance of each grape variety, united by their shared affinity for terroir expression. Centuries ago, the renowned Florentine Renaissance figure, Ser Lapo Mazzei, hailed the excellence of “Chianti” wine in the late 1300s. At that time, he could never have predicted the myriad upheavals that would affect his treasured world, a hub of culture in its era. Furthermore, he likely could not have envisioned that his descendants would navigate through the darkest periods of history and play a pivotal role in elevating the region to global prominence. Yet, perhaps, he possessed a glimpse into the future, as a true Renaissance man who foresaw the eventual prestige of Chianti more than 600 years before it gained recognition. Vertical of Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli A chronicle of the Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli spanning from 1981 to 2021: 1981 Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli, Tuscany, Italy: Composed of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine presents a garnet hue accompanied by a complex bouquet featuring tarragon and stewed black cherries, accented by a touch of dried oregano. The palate is vibrant with electric tart cranberries and a lengthy aromatic finish, leaving a lasting impression of star anise. 1988 Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli, Tuscany, Italy: Also made with 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, this vintage showcases a deeper ruby shade compared to the 1981, edged with a garnet rim. It has a rich aroma profile with hints of cocoa powder, a breath of espresso, and crushed rocks, paired with a plush body and silky texture featuring blackberry notes laced with baking spices. 1994 Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli, Tuscany, Italy: This 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon blend exhibits a remarkable finesse, with a texture reminiscent of fine lace. Its multifaceted bouquet presents rose petals and tar, complemented by juicy cassis flavors that extend into an impressively long finish. 2013 Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli, Tuscany, Italy: Crafted from the same 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon mixture, this vintage delights with a breathtaking pure ruby color, hinting at the extraordinary fruit purity on the palate. Fresh blueberries mingle with warm raspberries, underlined by a minerality that elevates this wine to exceptional elegance. 2015 Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli, Tuscany, Italy: Composed of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine captivates with its smooth texture and supple tannins, wrapping the palate like delicate silk. The fresh tobacco notes perfectly complement the abundant fruit, creating an impressive balance. 2016 Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli, Tuscany, Italy: Also featuring 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, this vintage offers a fascinating bouquet infused with earthy undertones and graphite. The palate is graced with crunchy blackberry and red currant flavors, while the lingering aroma of a lit cigar lingers delightfully in the senses well after tasting. 2018 Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli, Tuscany, Italy: This blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon introduces the palate to roasted coffee beans and dark chocolate, creating a delightful opening. The finish reveals flavors of cherry tart, accompanied by lingering notes of dried herbs and a distinct smoky minerality. 2019 Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli, Tuscany, Italy: Maintaining the same composition of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, this vintage delivers an immediate sense of the vineyard’s terroir through aromas of tree bark, truffles, and forest floor. The mid-palate showcases a rich tapestry of dark cherry scone and boysenberry cobbler, featuring a remarkable texture and a finish that extends nearly indefinitely. 2020 Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli, Tuscany, Italy: This wine is composed of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. It offers an appealing bouquet of wildflowers and an exquisite purity of raspberry fruit, presenting a well-balanced profile with undertones of wet river stones. The palate reveals a bright acidity paired with deeper brambly fruit, culminating in a finish marked by precision. 2021 Mazzei Concerto di Fonterutoli, Tuscany, Italy: Also made from 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, this vintage greets you with captivating aromas of rose oil and cinnamon. Its velvety mouthfeel showcases a blend of red cherry compote along with a delicate chalky minerality, leading to a remarkably long finish that beautifully articulates both aromas and flavors. One Community. Many Voices. Create a free account to share your thoughts. Our community focuses on uniting individuals through open and meaningful discussions. We encourage our readers to express their opinions and share insights in a supportive environment. To proceed, please adhere to the posting guidelines outlined in our site’s Terms of Service. Below, we have highlighted some of the essential rules. In simple terms, maintain a respectful tone. We will reject your post if it appears to contain: User accounts may be suspended if we suspect or observe that users are participating in: Now, how can you become a power user? We appreciate your attention to our community guidelines. For a comprehensive overview of our posting rules, please refer to our site’s Terms of Service. About the Author: Chris Lehoux Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored! Wine