Local Winemaker Stands Firm Against White Wine Festival’s ‘No Chardonnay’ Decision

When Phil Baxter, a winemaker at Baxter Winery in Anderson Valley, discovered unpicked Chardonnay grapes while walking through Oppenlander Vineyard, he was surprised. The vineyard, known primarily for its brambly Pinot Noir, had left the Chardonnay hanging late in the season, yielding ripe fruit with texture and flavor despite low sugar levels. Baxter recognized the potential of this Chardonnay and decided to purchase the grapes to add a white wine to his offerings. The result was a vibrant Chardonnay showcasing freshness, minerality, and notes of orange blossom, stone fruit, and Meyer lemon.

Eager to share his new creation, Baxter aimed to participate in the Anderson Valley Aromatic White Wine Festival in 2018. However, he was informed that Chardonnay was not allowed as it didn’t fit the festival’s focus on Alsatian varietals. Baxter argued that Chardonnay is, in fact, cultivated in Alsace, but his attempts were unsuccessful. He expressed his disappointment, especially as a dues-paying member of the Anderson Valley Winegrowers.

The festival, which originated in 2006 to celebrate the Alsatian heritage of the region, has historically focused on varietals like Riesling and Gewurztraminer. But with changing trends, the decision was made in 2020 to allow Chardonnay for the first time. Because of the new rule, Baxter brought eight vintages of his Chardonnay to showcase its unique qualities, contrasting it with the larger, oaky Chardonnays often criticized.

Historically, Chardonnay was one of the first varieties recommended for Anderson Valley’s climate in the 1940s. The region’s cool climate, influenced by ocean breezes and fog, is ideal for producing crisp, high-acid wines. While Chardonnay planting began in the 1970s, it gained momentum in the 1980s with the rising popularity of sparkling wines from local producers.

Today, Chardonnay stands as the second most-planted grape in Anderson Valley, following Pinot Noir. Winemakers are increasingly recognizing the variety’s cool climate characteristics, sparking interest in producing not just sparkling but also still wines.

One winery, LIOCO in Healdsburg, has been creating Anderson Valley Chardonnay since 2006. Winemaker Matt Licklider emphasizes the unique site-specific attributes that high-elevation vineyards, like Skycrest, provide, producing Chardonnays with thicker skins and structured profiles alongside distinct soil characteristics.

The Anderson Valley International White Wine Festival is set to take place on February 15-16. The event will feature both local wines and international varieties, with tasting sessions and special events showcasing the region’s diverse offerings. For more information and tickets, visit avwines.com/international-white-wine-festival.

About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!