Exploring the Terroir: A Review of “The New French Wine” by Jon Bonné

In the realm of wine journalism, Jon Bonné stands out as a keen observer of the industry’s evolving trends, much like the character Cayce Pollard from William Gibson’s Pattern Recognition. Bonné has made a name for himself as a "coolhunter" for wine, adept at identifying emerging grapes, fresh producers, and revitalized wine regions. His journey began in the late 1990s when he transitioned into journalism, eventually becoming the wine editor and chief critic for the San Francisco Chronicle from 2006 to 2015. This immersion in the California wine scene during a transformative period led to his acclaimed 2013 book, The New California Wine.

With a newfound focus on France, Bonné dedicated eight years to researching and writing The New French Wine, a comprehensive two-volume set that endeavors to encompass the entirety of the French wine landscape. Unlike his earlier work, this ambitious book avoids the pitfalls of disorganization and incoherence. Instead, it delivers a well-structured and insightful exploration, effectively capturing the current state of French viticulture and its future trajectories.

The work is organized into a narrative and producer profiles section, comprising 864 pages. Bonné meticulously approaches each wine region, beginning with personal narratives from his explorations, conversations with local producers, and reflections on regional characteristics and developments. For instance, his observations on Muscadet highlight emerging generation vignerons who are distancing themselves from traditional methods to elevate the wine’s status.

Bonné’s insights extend to practical sections detailing the geography, geology, and climate of each region, as well as a detailed discussion of the various Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée (AOCs) and evolving wine styles. Throughout the book, readers encounter engaging sidebars addressing key themes and controversies, from the impact of premox in Burgundy to the rising trend of pét-nat.

While some areas may feel underexplored, the comprehensive commentary across regions is impressive, making The New French Wine a significant academic achievement. Accompanied by illustrative maps and atmospheric photography, the book provides a visually appealing experience, although the absence of captions for images can leave readers puzzled about specific references.

Bonné’s writing strikes a balance between scholarly depth and a relatable style, peppered with cultural references and occasional witticisms. His unapologetic attitude shines in the second volume, where he criticizes status-quo vintners and champions progressive producers. This critical lens offers a fresh perspective, differentiating the book from typical wine references.

Ultimately, Bonné’s The New French Wine is not merely a reference guide; it is a passionate and insightful exploration of France’s diverse wine culture. The books serve as essential reading for anyone eager to understand what Bonné terms “the world’s most vital, and important, winemaking culture.”

Jon Bonné, The New French Wine: Redefining the World’s Greatest Wine Culture, Ten Speed Press, 2023, $63.57 (Hardcover). Purchase a copy.

About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!