Navigating Global Recognition and Climate Challenges: The Story of Abruzzo’s Famiglia De Cerchio and Their Wine Business in Russia – Part Two

Federico De Cerchio, the fourth-generation owner of a wine estate in Abruzzo dating back to 1910, is dedicated to enhancing the reputation of the region’s Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines. In this continuation of the interview, he discusses the challenges and opportunities he faces while selling his prestigious Torre Zambra wines.

The Importance of Villamagna

Villamagna, recognized as a DOC (Denomination of Controlled Origin) since 2011, plays a significant role in Federico’s life. It is not only his birthplace but also an exceptional terroir created by both human effort and its geographical setting. The community has been cultivating Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grapes since the 1950s, situated close to the seaside and the Majella mountain, providing a microclimate that promotes the production of complex and age-worthy wines.

The DOC regulations are stringent, dictating aspects such as yield per hectare, vineyard altitude, and orientation, ensuring the optimal conditions for grape growing.

Challenges from Global Warming

Federico acknowledges the impact of global warming, particularly after 2020. The farming practices are reverting to the traditional Abruzzo Pergola system, which provides degree of protection for the grapes from extreme weather. Despite these environmental challenges, the alcohol level in quality Montepulciano d’Abruzzo has remained stable over the years.

Changing Preferences Among Young Consumers

Federico points out a declining interest in wine among younger generations compared to previous ones. This shift is attributed largely to more effective marketing strategies by non-wine beverage companies. He emphasizes the necessity for the wine industry to adapt, listening to the preferences of younger consumers to engage them effectively.

Media vs. Restaurant Coverage

In addressing the importance of media coverage and restaurant placements, Federico believes both play vital roles, with media visibility being crucial for restaurateurs to learn about wines and vineyards.

Export Markets

Currently, over 95% of Famiglia De Cerchio’s production is exported. However, local market growth is strong, leading to a slight anticipated decrease in export share. Notably, Canada now comprises a significant portion of their exports, surpassing the U.S. due to tariff impacts.

Selling Wine to Russia

Despite current sanctions prohibiting the sale of luxury wines over €300 to Russia, Federico finds ways to continue business, citing personal relationships that take precedence over geopolitical strife. This complex situation is difficult, yet he expresses reluctance to abandon friends affected by the turmoil.

Future Aspirations

Looking to the future, Famiglia De Cerchio aims to further invest in its Torre Zambra estate and develop the wine tourism sector in Villamagna. Plans include expanding guest accommodations and opening a new restaurant that will offer authentic Abruzzese cuisine, reinforcing the estate’s strong community ties and promoting their celebrated Villamagna DOC.

For more on the ongoing evolution and strategies within the wine industry, follow their journey through the complexities of modern markets and sustainability efforts.

About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!