Pinotage: A Legacy Reborn in the World of Wine

I have seen the future of South African Pinotage, and it’s a transformation that feels long overdue. Introduced in 1924 by Professor Abraham Izak Perold at Stellenbosch University, Pinotage is a hybrid of Pinot Noir and Cinsaut (formerly known as Hermitage in South Africa). Despite being labeled as South Africa’s signature grape and cultivated widely throughout the 20th century, Pinotage has endured a polarizing reputation, often criticized for its distinct, sometimes off-putting flavor notes.

Historically, Pinotage has exhibited aromas reminiscent of paint, band-aids, or even burnt rubber, a consequence of an excessive mix of esters and other fermentation-related compounds. The origins of these undesirable scents have been traced to various factors, from virused vines and poor vineyard sites to intense fermentation processes and even the use of creosote-treated trellis posts. However, after years of scrutiny, the South African wine industry has begun addressing these issues systematically.

Many vineyards have been replanted or regrafted with virus-free stock. Vineyard site selection has become more judicious, fermentation techniques refined to alleviate yeast stress at lower temperatures, and aging processes improved by discarding old trellis posts. The culmination of these efforts has led to substantial improvements in the quality of Pinotage.

In the 1990s, a new approach to Pinotage emerged, prioritizing lower yields and riper fruit that was heavily extracted, fermented in an oxygen-rich environment, and aged in new French oak barrels. This style resulted in wines that were rich and robust, often masking unpleasant flavors with a prominent oak signature. A notable innovation came from a group of producers, led by Diemersfontein, who created “Coffee Pinotage,” a variant that emphasized oak flavors reminiscent of coffee, garnering acclaim but raising concerns about losing varietal character.

Over the last two decades, this once-revolutionary style has now become the status quo, producing wines focused on ripeness, oak influence, and high alcohol content–qualities that can result in wine tasting more of wood than terroir.

Despite this, a handful of producers, such as Abrie Beeslaar of Kanonkop, have demonstrated that exceptional Pinotage can adhere to a more traditional style, balancing richness with vibrancy, though they still operate within the same basic structure.

The turning point came in 2022, during the CapeWine fair, when I encountered a Pinotage that radically altered my perception of the varietal. Jolandie Fouché’s 2021 Wolf and Woman Pinotage was an astonishing creation — vividly acidic, fresh, and stony in nature, it lacked any woody notes. Sourced from vines planted in 1973, with no new oak influence and low alcohol content under 13%, this wine embodies what Pinotage can aspire to be: lively and delicious.

Interestingly, the day after this revelation, I attended a Pinotage Association event, where established winemakers dismissed the notion of producing less-ripe, unoaked styles, insisting that true Pinotage needed some degree of ripeness and oak aging. Yet, against this backdrop, a new wave of winemakers is emerging. They are treating Pinotage in ways reminiscent of Gamay or Cinsaut, employing techniques such as carbonic maceration and whole-cluster fermentation, and seeking lower alcohol levels around 13%.

This shift highlights the promising future for Pinotage, one that embraces its inherent freshness and drinkability. Nearly a century after its conception, it seems a new generation of South African winemakers is ready to explore the possibilities of this unique grape.

Recommended Pinotages

• 2025 Aslina “Ndubs” Red Blend
  Tasting Notes: Underbrush, berries, flowers. Chewy tannins with cherry and plum core. Alcohol: 13%. Cost: $21. Buy here.

• 2023 David & Nadia “Topography” Pinotage
  Tasting Notes: Flowers, plums, and earth. Juicy with excellent acidity. Alcohol: 12.5%. Cost: $28. Buy here.

• 2017 FRAM “Kromme Valley” Pinotage
  Tasting Notes: Bright berries, hints of balsamic. Wonderful boysenberry flavors. Alcohol: 13.5%. Cost: $30. Buy here.

• 2023 Illimis Pinotage
  Tasting Notes: Ripe berries, plums, and herbs. Crunchy with great acidity. Alcohol: 13.5%.

• 2022 Natte Valleij “Nat” Pinotage
  Tasting Notes: Chopped herbs and raspberries. Tangy with sour cherry. Alcohol: 12.5%. Cost: $17. Buy here.

With these developments and a growing roster of innovative winemakers paving the way, the future of Pinotage indeed looks brighter, promising a renewed appreciation for this complex grape.

About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!