Savoring Coastal Brilliance: Discover the Latest Releases from Hirsch Vineyards

This past July, the wine community lost David Hirsch, a pivotal figure who demonstrated that outstanding Pinot Noir could flourish near the chilly Pacific Ocean, just three miles from the coast, amid towering redwoods. After suffering a tractor accident in 2014, Hirsch became wheelchair-bound, prompting his daughter Jasmine to step into the managerial role of the vineyard in 2015. She took on winemaking duties in 2019, joining forces with consulting winemaker Michael Cruse. Even after his accident, David remained active in the vineyard until shortly before his passing.

Jasmine Hirsch has been instrumental in the evolution of Hirsch Vineyards, which commenced its own winemaking venture in 2002. Historically, many Hirsch wines were difficult to enjoy young, exhibiting a certain impenetrability. Today, wines from the estate exhibit a more nuanced complexity and greater expressiveness right from the bottle. While the vineyard’s maturity and refined farming practices contributed to this development, Jasmine’s influence appears to be the primary catalyst for their ongoing success.

Hirsch Vineyards covers 72 planted acres on a 1,000-acre estate perched at an elevation of 1,500 feet, offering breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean. It started with a mere two acres of Pinot Noir planted in 1980 on Hirsch’s now-abandoned sheep ranch, a bold move in a region where few had even begun to imagine viticulture would thrive. Today, the West Sonoma Coast where Hirsch is located has its own AVA, Fort Ross-Seaview, designated in 2012.

The estate, subjected to coastal fog and cool winds, faces significant rainfall in the winter but remains dry in summer, influencing how grapes develop. Just a half-mile from the San Andreas Fault, the diverse soils here—ranging from sandy sediments to iron-rich sandstone—provide ideal conditions for growing Pinot Noir, with the vineyard meticulously organized into 67 distinct farming blocks to support a diverse portfolio that includes Pinot Noirs, rosé, and Chardonnay.

Since implementing biodynamic farming practices in 2011 under vineyard manager Everardo Robledo, the winery adopts a low-intervention winemaking philosophy. Grapes undergo a cold soak before fermentation in open-top containers using ambient yeasts, with minimal use of whole clusters for Pinot Noir. Their winemaking technique emphasizes the vineyard’s unique terroir while ensuring accessibility and elegance.

In 2020, they produced their inaugural rosé, a style Jasmine and David had long discussions about creating. Unlike typical rosés aimed at immediacy, Hirsch’s is crafted for longevity, with a more complex character akin to their Chardonnay. The method involves picking the fruit just before full ripeness and aging it rigorously, resulting in a sophisticated, ageworthy wine.

Jasmine has continually refined their approach, focusing on the relationship between tannin structure and fruit concentration, achieving a desirable balance that enhances the wine’s complexity and drinkability. The recent improvements in Hirsch wines signal a promising future for the vineyard, showcasing what can be achieved when passion and stewardship are at the forefront.

Tasting Notes

2024 Hirsch Vineyards Chardonnay
A light gold wine exuding lemon zest and smokiness, revealing saline lemon flavors with floral undertones. Its delicate acidity and stony backbone make it both seamless and enjoyable. (Score: 9 to 9.5; Cost: $96)

2024 Hirsch Vineyards Rosé of Pinot Noir
This light coppery pink wine offers berry, nut, and floral aromas, with a palate of silky strawberry and raspberry flavors enhanced by herbal notes. It showcases remarkable acidity and ageability. (Score: around 9.5; Cost: $45)

2023 Hirsch Vineyards “Raschen Ridge” Pinot Noir
With a medium garnet hue, this wine presents earthy and cherry aromas. Its vibrant mouthfeel features stony tannins and a fine oak finish. A well-structured wine that impresses on the palate. (Score: around 9.5; Cost: $143)

2023 Hirsch Vineyards “San Andreas Fault” Pinot Noir
Light to medium garnet, delivering delightful cherry and herb aromas; the palate is soft with a lingering citrus and herb finish. A balanced, beautiful wine. (Score: 9 to 9.5; Cost: $84)

2023 Hirsch Vineyards “Reserve” Pinot Noir
A medium garnet wine with concentrated cherry and floral notes. Its excellent acidity and subtle oak influence ensure a gorgeous balance. (Score: around 9.5; Cost: $137)

2023 Hirsch Vineyards “Block 8” Pinot Noir
Light to medium garnet showcasing vibrant redcurrant flavors, this wine is salinity-inflected with electrifying acidity. A thrilling and delicious experience. (Score: 9.5 to 10; Cost: $153)

As Jasmine continues to explore the potential of the estate and its wines, the legacy of her father’s pioneering spirit is poised to flourish in the decades to come.

About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!