Exploring the Rhône Valley: A Deep Dive into Its Elegant Whites and Complex Reds” | COMMENTARY

The Rhone Valley captivates us endlessly. Much like other varied regions, it offers a spectrum of wines suited to diverse palettes.

In the Northern Rhone, you find complex, age-worthy syrahs, while the Southern Rhone features more accessible, budget-friendly red blends. We are particularly fond of the former, though the latter, perfect for pairing with barbecue, chiefly comprises blends of grenache, syrah, and mourvedre, along with other local red varieties.

The white wines from the Cotes du Rhone in Southern Rhone are less familiar. This week, we delve into these as well as the intricate red wines from the Hermitage area in Northern Rhone.

White wines form only about 10% of the total wine production in the Cotes du Rhone, primarily made from grenache blanc, clairette, bourboulenc, and viognier. Typically exhibiting citrus and stone fruit notes, these wines, despite their pronounced acidity which might not be to everyone’s taste, are invigorating and complement food, particularly cheese, very well.

We recently explored a variety of white Cotes du Rhones and were quite taken by their quality and style, which is a great alternative for those looking to diverge from the common chardonnay grape. While these specific brands may be more challenging to find, quality wine shops should have comparable options. Typically, Cotes du Rhone blancs are reasonably priced in the mid-teens.

Plan-Vermeersch RS Blanc Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2022 ($12-19): This ideal wine features notes of citrus, peach, and minerals, with a rich and full-bodied mouthfeel.

Ogier Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2022 ($12-19): Offers fruity notes of peach and pear with a charming, textured mouthfeel and a touch of stoniness on the finish.

Heritages Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2022 ($15): A delightful blend of peaches, pears, and floral aromatics that enchant the senses.

M. Chapoutier Belleruche Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2022 ($16): This blend uses grenache blanc, rousanne, viognier, clairette, and bourboulenc, delivering aromas reminiscent of perfume, complemented by strong acidity and hints of apricots and fennel in its flavors.

Domaine de l’Espigouette Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2023 ($18): Dominated by viognier, which makes up 70% of the blend, this wine features strong floral scents with overtones of stone fruit and vanilla, while peach and citrus notes define its taste. It includes grenache blanc as well.

Guigal and Perrin are notable for producing accessible versions of white CDR at comparable prices.

The Northern Rhone region, often overlooked among France’s major wine appellations, is the original territory of the syrah grape. Predominantly known for its red wines, which constitute 95% of its output, syrah is the predominant variety grown here.

The area is also known for its exceptional white wines primarily made from marsanne, roussanne, and viognier grapes.

Hermitage and Crozes Hermitage are two of the most prestigious Northern Rhone appellations known for their syrah wines, uniquely situated on the east bank of the Rhone River. The history of viticulture in this region dates back to the era of Greek influence, with Hermitage experiencing various degrees of fame over the centuries.

In the 19th century, wine producers from Bordeaux and Burgundy would enhance the color and body of their red wines intended for export by blending in wine from Hermitage.

Founded in 1835, Delas Freres has been a significant name in winemaking. While the winery changed ownership previously, it is now under the ownership of Louis Roederer, a renowned Champagne house. Delas Freres produces wines from both the southern and northern Rhone areas.

We recently sampled two new vintages and were quite impressed by their robust styles. Particularly, the Hermitage demands at least ten years of aging. Here are our thoughts:

Delas Crozes-Hermitage Domaine Des Grands Chemins 2020 ($54). Sporting a lovely deep purple/red hue, this young wine is delicious. It features flavors of grape, berry, cherry, and a touch of mocha on the finish. It’s appealing now and promises to gain intriguing complexity with moderate aging.

Delas Hermitage Domaine Des Tourettes 2020 ($105). This wine also boasts a deep color. It offers an intense berry aroma and taste. Although slightly reserved due to its youth, its silky soft tannins suggest it has great potential for long-term aging.

Both wines showcase the finest qualities of syrah. If possible, purchase both. Enjoy the Crozes-Hermitage now or over the next few years, and cellar the Hermitage for at least a decade.

The series titled Art of the Cooper pays tribute to the craftsmen known as coopers, who have a significant role in impacting the quality of wine. We stumbled upon two of their wines at a local store, namely the 2023 Art of Cooper Sauvignon Blanc and the 2022 Art of the Cooper Pinot Noir.

The price of each bottle is generally around $18, though this may vary based on the purchase location.

The Pinot Noir, derived from Monterey grapes, is a medium-bodied wine characterized by its flavors of cherry and plum.

The Sauvignon Blanc was particularly enjoyable for us, offering a fruit-driven, robust taste with prominent pineapple and guava notes, ending with a mineral finish.

Sonoma-Cutrer Les Plus Haut Pinot Noir 2021 ($70). Titled “most elevated,” this pinot noir is from the estate and uses grapes from a 300-foot high slope experiencing warm days and crisp nights. As part of the “Winemaker’s Release,” it demonstrates the skill of the winemaker. It features black fruit and espresso, with spicy scents followed by rich blackberry and cherry tastes, and a complex of herbs and spices. This wine is elegantly made.

Decoy California Merlot 2022 ($25). Known for its solid value, this robust merlot brings bold black cherry scents and prominent cherry tastes. It is seasoned with plenty of spices and touches of olive, creating a fascinating and delightful drink.

J. Lohr October Night Chardonnay Arroyo Seco 2022 ($25). A consistently favored chardonnay, this rich and affordable wine offers abundant floral and lemon scents, along with flavors of ripe apple and spices, complemented by a soft texture.

Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr have been writing a weekly, syndicated wine column since 1985. Visit their blog at moreaboutwine.com. They can be reached at marq1948@gmail.com.

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About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!