Remembering Neil Empson: The Iconic Importer Who Brought Italian Wine to the World Stage Passes Away at 85

A believer in quality wines from across the Italian peninsula, the New Zealander built an impressive company and legacy.

Neil Empson, founder of Empson & Co. and a pioneering importer of Italian fine wine into the United States, passed away on September 14 after a prolonged fight with cancer at the age of 85.

“My father conquered many challenges but ultimately lost his most important battle, as he wished to continue experiencing life and love as he always had,” said Tara Empson, his daughter and the current CEO of Empson & Co. She shared with Wine Spectator that even in his final days, he insisted on enjoying sips of wine, his lifelong passion alongside his wife, his cherished companion to the end.

Empson was born on March 16, 1939, in the district of Waikato in New Zealand into a farming family. He met his wife, Maria Gemma, in 1969. The couple established Empson & Co. in 1972 in Milan, which became their headquarters. He acknowledged the potential of Italian wines and introduced American consumers to producers from across Italy as the country’s wine quality revolution unfolded during the 1970s and 1980s. He was instrumental in introducing significant figures like Angelo Gaja to the American market, who would later become renowned icons.

bring in new names like Angelo Gaja

Empson USA was established in 1991 and Empson Canada in 2000, marking the start of their journey in the wine import and distribution sector initially focusing on Italian wines. Over time, the company expanded to include wines from California, Oregon, New Zealand, and Chile.

Dominic Nocerino, founder of Vinifera Imports in 1979, began his career in the wine industry in 1972. He shared a memorable encounter, “I first met Neal in Chicago in 1974. At that time, he was among the few who were importing quality Italian wines in the U.S. He was a pioneer in our industry, recognizing the excellence of Italian wines well before many others. He will be truly missed.”

I encountered Neil for the first time in 2008 during a seminar on Italian wines from Empson’s selection. It was part of the Wine Spectator‘s Seminar Series at the South Beach Wine & Food Festival. By 2010, I was covering Piedmont and Tuscany for the magazine.

In November 2010, we met again in Piedmont. During this visit, I toured Luigi Einaudi and Marcarini, two producers associated with Empson. After my tours, I spent a few days in Milan and Neil invited me to the Empson offices to sample their Piedmont and Tuscan wines. That tasting session left a lasting impression, notably the wines from Il Molino di Grace, a Chianti Classico estate recently acquired by American Frank Grace, which showcased the refined influence of consulting enologist Franco Bernabei.

In the subsequent year, during a journey to Tuscany, I had the opportunity to explore Bernabei’s laboratory in the Chianti Classico area of Greve, before heading to Il Molino di Grace. Neil accompanied us. Post tasting, we had a dinner invitation, prompting me to offer Neil a ride to Panzano and Il Molino di Grace.

Our visit included a tour of the winery and a tasting session, after which we proceeded to the main residence. It was November and already dark, causing some difficulty as my rental car labored up a challenging gravel path. After driving for about five minutes without any sight of the house, I inquired with Neil whether we were proceeding correctly. His response was uncertain, “I don’t know, I’ve never been here before.” (This situation seemed like a fitting metaphor for the exploration involved in fine wine discovery and importation.) Eventually, we arrived and had a delightful dinner.

Upon conveying the news about Neil’s passing to Grace, he responded through an email, stating, “It was my relationship with Neil as an import partner that put Il Molino di Grace prominently on the U.S. map. Being included in Neil’s collection implied a distinct charm of the Old World and, perhaps, a sense of grace.”

Neil was a person characterized by warmth, humor, and empathy, always ready with an amusing tale. He will be dearly missed. He leaves behind his wife, Maria; his children, Tara Empson, Tracy Rudich, and Paul Empson; and his siblings, Heather, Margaret, and Graham.

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About the Author: Chris Lehoux

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