The Secret to Success: Why Wine Grapes Thrive on the North Face of a Volcano

As wine regions around the globe face the impacts of climate change, the north face of Mount Etna in Sicily stands out for its exceptional conditions and remarkable resilience.

Characterized by young volcanic soils, high altitudes, and cooling winds, this region supports the cultivation of nerello mascalese grapes, known for their complexity and deep-rooted ties to the unique landscape of Etna. The volcanic soil here rejuvenates itself, constantly providing a rich mineral environment. According to Diego Cusumano, co-owner of Cusumano Winery and Alta Mora Wines, the unique volcanic soil of Etna is “young and in continuous evolution,” creating a system where the energy is retained, allowing these grapes to thrive.

The mineral-rich soils, packed with nutrients like potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, and calcium, are vital for producing robust and flavorful grapes. Additionally, the high altitudes on the north face result in cooler temperatures compared to other Sicilian regions. This climatic advantage slows the ripening process, leading to wines that boast balanced acidity and refined flavor profiles. Cusumano highlights the importance of this altitude: the cooler temperatures around 14°C in September and October are ideal for enhancing flavor complexity in the wine.

The climate on Etna blends adequate rainfall with cool temperatures, unlike many other wine-growing areas. However, climate change threatens this delicate balance, as rising temperatures and unpredictable rainfall alter the growing season. Although the north face’s cooler microclimate provides some protection, winemakers find themselves adapting their practices to maintain wine quality.

“It’s a challenge to harness the earth’s energy into the grapes and ultimately the wine,” Cusumano explains. He notes the complexity in managing vine vigor and the importance of selective pruning and precise irrigation management to ensure the vines adapt from winter’s cold to summer’s heat effectively.

In addition to these climatic challenges, the volcanic slopes of Etna present their own difficulties. The fragmented vineyard space, shaped by ancient lava flows, makes mechanical cultivation impractical, leading to more reliance on manual labor. Cusumano states, "Most of our operations are done by hand, as there are only small plots shaped by lava."

Wind patterns also affect grape growth, as consistent winds and lower nighttime temperatures enhance acidity and promote the development of soft, complex tannins. This combination of elements produces wines that are not only distinct but also celebrated for their depth and elegance, giving them a unique standing in Sicily and beyond.

Despite the challenges posed by climate change, there is a heightened recognition of the north face’s exceptional characteristics. The global market for nerello mascalese has expanded significantly, demonstrating a robust demand for these distinctive wines. As the industry navigates environmental pressures, the terroir of Etna’s north face will likely continue to evolve, adapt, and flourish.

"Nerello mascalese grown on the northern side of Mount Etna is in a state of continuous evolution and improvement," Cusumano asserts, underscoring the region’s capability to withstand climatic variations while producing high-quality wines.

About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!