Exploring New Zealand’s Overlooked Aromatic White Wines: Hidden Gems Awaiting Discovery

Everyone associates New Zealand with its remarkable Sauvignon Blanc, a standout in the wine world. Yet, prior to its rise, the country’s initial acclaim was attributed to its aromatic white wines.

In the early stages of its wine production, New Zealand primarily focused on fortified wines, relying on hybrids that performed well at high sugar levels. The industry began transitioning towards dry table wines in the 1970s and ’80s, with varietals such as Palomino and Müller-Thurgau gaining ground before the emergence of Pinot Gris and Riesling. This marked the beginning of a trend where Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay surged to prominence, with Sauvignon Blanc reclaiming the title of the country’s dominant white grape.

Riesling and Pinot Gris received early endorsements from enthusiasts in different regions of New Zealand. In Central Otago, winemakers, uncertain about the region’s capabilities, first planted Riesling. Rudy Bauer of Quartz Reef emphasized, "From the word go in Central Otago, the first plantings were Riesling." The connection to top German and Swiss viticulture research played a vital role in informing early growers.

In Martinborough, the small winery Dry River, founded by Neil and Dawn McCallum, was among the first to plant Pinot Gris back in 1979, significantly contributing to its popularity. Their Alsatian-style wines, featuring noticeable residual sugar, spurred interest among other producers.

However, like many aromatic whites from regions outside Germany and Austria, New Zealand’s Pinot Gris and Riesling face a "sweetness surprise." Many wines, unless labeled explicitly as dry, leave consumers uncertain about their sweetness levels. This results in disappointing experiences for those expecting a crisp white.

Today, Pinot Gris and Riesling are among the third and fourth most cultivated white grape varieties in New Zealand, trailing only Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. The share of Pinot Gris has modestly increased over the years, while Riesling has seen a decline in vineyard space.

Despite the dominance of larger producers who make inexpensive bottlings, fine wine producers devoted to these grapes continue to create compelling wines. The best Rieslings exhibit vibrant citrus, pear notes, and stunning minerality, whereas top Pinot Gris offer a balance of richness and freshness reminiscent of brisk styles from Alto Adige.

In the long shadow cast by Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand’s premier Rieslings and Pinot Gris deserve recognition and appreciation equal to that of the country’s more celebrated offerings.

Tasting Notes

Many of these wines are difficult to find in the U.S., especially from well-known producers, often due to limited production. Here are some noteworthy selections if accessible:

Riesling Highlights

• 2024 Felton Road “Dry” Riesling – This wine features bright citrus with stony minerality and balanced acidity. Score: 9-9.5. Cost: $30. click to buy.

• 2023 Rippon “Mature Vine” Riesling – Offers stony minerality with floral notes and a crystalline finish. Score: 9-9.5. Cost: $43. click to buy.

• 2024 Greystone Riesling – Features mandarin and white flower notes, very fresh. Score: around 9. Cost: $??.

Pinot Gris Highlights

• 2023 Quartz Reef "Pinot Gris" – Provides crystalline pear flavors with a lovely stony finish. Score: 9-9.5. Cost: $??.

• 2024 Maude “Estate” Pinot Gris – An electric acidity character enhances the flavors of pear and citrus. Score: 9-9.5. Cost: $??.

• 2023 Mahi Pinot Gris – This wine offers bright pear and floral notes with a stony minerality. Score: around 9. Cost: $17. click to buy.

In summary, while Sauvignon Blanc may be the face of New Zealand’s wine industry, its aromatic whites like Riesling and Pinot Gris are worthy of your attention and appreciation for their unique character and complexity.

About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!