Celebrating the Soul of Old Vine País: Introducing ALMAULE

A few weeks ago, I highlighted VIGNO, a movement in Chile designed to celebrate old-vine, dry-farmed Carignan in the Maule Valley. Interestingly, about four years ago, a group of six professionals from VIGNO recognized a similar need for old-vine País from the Maule’s Secano Interior, which led to the creation of ALMAULE.

While the old-vine Carignan in Maule has roots dating back to the mid-20th century, many País vineyards in the same region are over a century old. These hardy, own-rooted vines have long produced wines primarily enjoyed locally or sold to larger wineries for blending into mass-market wines.

The spirit of ALMAULE stands in contrast to VIGNO’s more formalized approach. País is typically a wine associated with the local populace, and ALMAULE’s goal is to reconnect the grape with its roots—serving it not on pedestals, but at dinner tables, picnic blankets, tailgates, and city parks where it once thrived.

“ALMAULE is a tribute to the cultural richness of Secano and the resilient capacity of winemaking that, since 1548, gave rise to Chile’s most emblematic industry and symbol in the world.”— From the founders

The Dry Land

Maule’s Secano Interior is home to an impressive 19,000 hectares of vines, with nearly every producer cultivating some País, the oldest grape variety in Chile. Derek Mossman Knapp, a founding member of both VIGNO and ALMAULE, highlights the importance of this grape, noting, "Not everyone has old-vine Carignan, but almost everyone has some País… This is about easy drinking."

To use the ALMAULE designation, members must adhere to specific production standards:

• Sourced from the subregions of Talca, Pencahue, San Clemente, San Rafael, San Javier, Villa Alegre, Parral, Linares, and Cauquenes.
• Contain a minimum of 90% País from head-trained vines aged over 30 years.
• Have an alcohol content of at least 12.5% and residual sugar under 5 g/l.

Additionally, wines must pass a blind tasting panel to ensure they are "fresh, rustic, clear, clean, and juicy red wine reflective of the vintage" with predominant varietal characteristics.

In recent years, País has garnered attention in the natural wine movement, and ALMAULE seeks to differentiate itself by returning to the fresh, uncomplicated expressions of the grape that have long been cherished.

Knapp notes the growing popularity of País in restaurants and bars, especially in cities like Brooklyn, where it’s become a staple on wine lists. More importantly, he emphasizes how well ALMAULE wines are received within Chile, where they are often favored over traditional beverages like beer at social events.

País for the People

The world of wine often overlooks underrated grapes, and País frequently falls into this category. I’ve highlighted before how some may view País wines as rustic, but this is more a reflection of their production than the grape’s quality.

In skilled hands, País can yield vibrant wines with energy, freshness, and delicious acidity—perfectly aligning with the trend towards chillable reds. The ALMAULE producers have shared several bottles with me that exemplify this delightful potential, with varying flavor profiles and cheerful characteristics.

The name ALMAULE is a blend of "Maule" and "alma" (soul), symbolizing wines that connect nearly 500 years of winemaking heritage with a modern appeal.

These wines are not yet widely available outside Chile but are worth the wait. Here are some tasting notes from recent releases:

Tasting Notes

2023 Balduzzi Almaule País
A light to medium ruby color with aromas of cherries and candied pomegranate, leading to juicy, bright flavors of sour cherry and raspberry. Excellent acidity. Score: around 9.

2024 Baron Philippe de Rothschild Almaule – Terra Sagrada País
Medium garnet, this wine offers aromas of boysenberries and black raspberries, with mouthwatering unripe blackberry flavors. Score: around 9.

2023 Entre Rosas & Parras Almaule País
Medium garnet; flavors of boysenberries and grape soda, slightly fruity but with good acidity. Score: between 8 and 8.5.

2023 Erasmo Almaule País
Light garnet with scents of strawberries and herbal nuances, creating a juicy berry flavor profile enhanced by excellent acidity. Score: around 8.5.

2022 Garage Wine Co. Almaule País
Light ruby, earthy notes alongside strawberry and raspberry flavors. Score: around 8.5.

2023 Gillmore Almaule País
Light garnet; exhibits bright strawberry and raspberry, with excellent acidity. Score: between 8.5 and 9.

2023 Las Valetas Almaule País
Medium garnet, juicy strawberry and cherry flavors dominate, complemented by good acidity. Score: between 8.5 and 9.

2023 Cooperativa Loncomilla Almaule País
Pale ruby reminiscent of rosé, with charming flavors of berries and flowers. Score: around 9.

Overall, these selections illustrate why we should all be enjoying more País.

About the Author: Chris Lehoux

Meet Chris Lehoux, an experienced wine connoisseur and dedicated blogger with a deep passion for all things wine-related. With years of expertise in the industry, Chris shares insightful wine reviews, valuable wine tasting tips, expert pairing advice, and captivating tales of vineyard visits. Join Chris on a journey through the world of wine, where every sip is an adventure waiting to be savored!